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What is the complete model number of the dryer?
Gene.
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teds840pq1 it is an whirlpool estate.
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The diagrams do not tell me which wire goes where on the terminal block. all i get are the neutral or ground wires, not the hot. is there another diagram or have you seen anypictures of the correct wiring for the power cable?
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There are three screws on the dryer terminal block. The center screw is always neutral (white wire). Two outer terminals are for hot lines (usually red and black). It does not make any difference which hot wire goes left or right.
If you used 3 wires power cord, then the dryer internal ground is connected to the middle screw (green wire or metal ground strap).
The 4 wire power cord has a ground (green) additional wire. If it's used for your dryer connection, then this power cord ground wire should be connected to the dryer terminal block frame or the dryer cabinet and the dryer internal ground wire or metal ground strap must be removed from the terminal block center screw. The neutral and hot wires have no difference in their connections between the 3 and 4 wires power cords.
Gene.
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I followed all the steps above and everything seems ok w/ continuity, including the air duct. However, number 8 in the diagram showed ONLY two prongs but on my dryer it has four prongs, and two of them with the purple cable connected to them do not have continuity. Is this my problem? If I replace them, the new part has only two prongs. my whirpool dryer model is: LER7648PQ0. Please help!
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Sounds like this cycling thermostat is fine. Did you check the circuit breakers? There are two breakers and they both must be On to provide 240 VAC to the dryer.
Measure the voltage at the wall outlet.
Gene.
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I followed these steps and they're all fine: 1. Make sure one of the circuit breakers is not tripped 2. Make sure dryer gets 220 volts at the wall socket 3. Unplug the dryer and check the main terminal block for damage (this is where the power cord is attached) 4. Check the thermal fuse for continuity with an ohmmeter (fuse is number 7 on this diagram) 5. Check the heating element for continuity (heater is number 17 on the same diagram) 6. Check thermal cut-off for continuity (number 9 on the same diagram) 7. Check cycling thermalstat ( two prongs has continuity and two other prongs w/ purple cables do not have continuity). I thought this was the issue so I ordered the part. So if you said this part is ok, then what could be the issue? Thanks for helping.
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Hi Gene,
Any idea what else could cause the dryer to work but no heat? Thanks and appreciate your help.
Korry-
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Originally Posted by: nguyeko  I followed these steps and they're all fine: 1. Make sure one of the circuit breakers is not tripped 2. Make sure dryer gets 220 volts at the wall socket 3. Unplug the dryer and check the main terminal block for damage (this is where the power cord is attached) 4. Check the thermal fuse for continuity with an ohmmeter (fuse is number 7 on this diagram) 5. Check the heating element for continuity (heater is number 17 on the same diagram) 6. Check thermal cut-off for continuity (number 9 on the same diagram) 7. Check cycling thermalstat ( two prongs has continuity and two other prongs w/ purple cables do not have continuity). I thought this was the issue so I ordered the part. So if you said this part is ok, then what could be the issue? Thanks for helping. Korry, Did you disconnect the wires from the parts before the continuity tests? If your answer is "Yes", then check for continuity between the timer terminals BK (black) and R (red) while the timer is in any auto or timed dry position. The wires should be removed from those terminals. Gene.
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