Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 3/25/2010(UTC)
Posts: 6
|
Hi--
I had just run a load the previous night, and when I went to run one today I depressed the start button while the door was open, and closed the door with the button depressed. Don't ask me why I did that, I'm sick with a cold and just wasn't thinking and never would have guessed it would break the machine, if that's even what happened. Anyway, pressing the start button after that led to nothing. It's either a big coincidence or I really broke it somehow. I popped the top off and everything appears connected just fine (the door switch is what I was really looking at). The timer runs when you put it on a setting. I don't have an ohmeter or whatever and reading about testing continuity with one kind of made my head hurt. I'm not really a fix-it guy although I did manage to diagnose and replace the drum rollers before by reading online. But that didn't require messing with wiring. I get the impression it might be the thermal fuse from reading these posts...should I just order one and hope that's it?
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert, Administrators
Joined: 7/19/2007(UTC)
Posts: 27,455
Was thanked: 4 time(s) in 4 post(s)
|
It might be the thermal fuse as well as a few more parts. The thermal fuse (#20 on the diagram) is probably the first guess, but it's always better to perform some tests before spending money on parts. You have to remove the rear panel to access the thermal fuse. - The thermal fuse Part number: AP3132867
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 3/25/2010(UTC)
Posts: 6
|
Thanks so much for the reply...I decided in the absence of a more sensible or cheap option to bite the bullet and pick a mulitmeter up...I was going to follow an article that walks you through testing the door switch, start switch, thermal fuse, thermostat, etc. and test these things one by one. If you hadn't told me to open it from the back for the fuse I would never have known, so thanks. I had found that diagram already and it's a little intense. Must I test them in the logical order, or can I save myself a headache by going right to the thermal fuse first (assuming that's it)?
Thanks again,
Andy
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert, Administrators
Joined: 7/19/2007(UTC)
Posts: 27,455
Was thanked: 4 time(s) in 4 post(s)
|
Andy,
I would check the thermal fuse first and the door switch second.
Gene.
P.S. Have you checked the circuit breakers?
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 3/25/2010(UTC)
Posts: 6
|
Hi Gene--
Yep, that all checks out, and just to be sure, I confirmed that the timer dial only runs when plugged in, so the machine is drawing power. Since I am sick, I'm going to tackle this Mon or Tues (esp now knowing that I have to wrestle the whole machine out of it's wedged in space to get to the back), so I'll let you know then how it goes.
Thanks,
Andy
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 3/25/2010(UTC)
Posts: 6
|
Well, I tested the thermal fuse, it didn't work, I went and got another one and replaced it--still nothing. There are two pieces to the thermostat--neither one gets a reading off the multimeter. The part listed on the schematic as AP3134945 looks like the right one, but the machine currently uses a 341146 for the thing that screws in on top of it, which doesn't look a lot like the part listed in it's place, AP3115922, but I guess the original is no longer available. Do I have to replace them both, or is one not getting a reading because the other piece is dead?
Thanks,
Andy
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert, Administrators
Joined: 7/19/2007(UTC)
Posts: 27,455
Was thanked: 4 time(s) in 4 post(s)
|
Andy, As shown in the wiring diagram, all thermostats are involved in the heating process only and no one thermostat is in the motor circuit. You have to check the push to start switch and the motor windings. Gene.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 3/24/2010(UTC)
Posts: 14
|
sounds like a vinyl venting issue
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 3/25/2010(UTC)
Posts: 6
|
Nevermind!
I went to check out the start switch and discovered I had forgotten to replace the door switch wires (I had dropped a screwdriver down under the drum and had to take the front off to get it--this has been fun). It works! Oh freaking happy day!
Thanks for your help!
Andy
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 3/24/2010(UTC)
Posts: 14
|
good for you andy, im glad it was simple, just remember you probably wont ever make the same mistake again, that how we all learn, by the way, if you do have the white vinyl vent you sholud really get rid of it , replace w/ metal straight pipe of flxible , not the tin foil garbage , 90% of all dryer fires in the u.s. are related in someway to vinyl . let me know how you make out .good luck....john
|
|
|
|
|
|
Forum Jump
You can post new topics in this forum.
You can reply to topics in this forum.
You can delete your posts in this forum.
You can edit your posts in this forum.
You cannot create polls in this forum.
You can vote in polls in this forum.
Important Information:
The AppliancePartsPros.com uses cookies. By continuing to browse this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies.
More Details
Close
