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jgray505  
#1 Posted : Tuesday, March 23, 2010 8:22:57 AM(UTC)
jgray505

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Joined: 3/22/2010(UTC)
Posts: 2

I've had this problem before, some LED's work on keypad, some don't. I can select Normal wash cycle and Energy Savings Dry (both LED's light up, this has always been the settings I choose) but when I push the start button the lights don't go off and on as in the past. When I close the door, nothing happens. I had to replace the whole heater coil unit about 3 years ago which came with a kit that included either the keypad user interface or the control panel, I can't remember which. I bought the kit because it had the keypad and/or control panel not for the heater element. The problems I was experiencing are identical to the ones that I have now. I did not have a heating coil problem at all. Believe it or not, at the time the whole kit was less expensive than the individual part. I think it was the control panel that I replaced but I'm not sure. I've checked Heat Element kits on this site, the kits are now more expensive than the control panel or the Keyboard user interface seperately and the kit only includes the control panel. I'm hoping someone has had the same problem and knows which of the two is the likely culprit. I have powered the unit on and off several times and checked that all connectors are well seated. The door latch mechanism seems to work, but I'm sure it's not that anyhow as the start button is pushed while the door is open and as I said, the selected LED's do not blink off and on as they did when the unit was working. Thanks
AFTER THINKING THIS THROUGH, AND CHECKING THE HEATER ELEMENT KIT AVAILABLE, I'M FAIRLY CERTAIN THAT IT WAS THE CONTROL PANEL NOT THE USER KEYPAD INTERFACE THAT i REPLACED. I still would be interested in any feedback concerning what might be causing this failure.
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denman  
#2 Posted : Wednesday, March 24, 2010 12:55:08 AM(UTC)
denman

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Here are your parts
Replacement parts for WHIRLPOOL KUDP01FLSS1 Dishwasher | AppliancePartsPros.com

Here is the tech sheet
http://www.servicematters.com/docs/wiring/Tech%20Sheet%20-%208537797.pdf

This may also have some useful info but is mostly for older units
https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/4e8b0d2df77cd7e585256cd800643b6d/$FILE/KD01.pdf

Take a look at the keypad pin-out chart to see if the keys that do not work have a common connection. Then you can pay special attention to that common.
This is often a crap shoot. The normal way yo check it is to check the keypad with a meter, see the tech sheet. If it checks out OK then replace the control board. Still a bit of a crap shoot but your odds are better.

You may want to try the following
Connector Cleaning / Checking
Unplug/remove power from the unit
Open it up
Remove the ribbon cable from the keypad to the control board at the control board.
Clean the edge connector.
If it is the type where there is not a connector just the insulation is removed, it can be cleaned with a pencil eraser. Do not use an ink eraser as it is too abrasive.
Check the tracks in the ribbon cable for hairline cracks. A magnifying glass helps here.
Would not hurt to clean the connector on the board. Use electronics contact cleaner or isopropyl alcohol and a tooth brush. Be gentle and do not reconnect till all the solvent evaporates.
Reconnect everything and give it a try.

If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.

There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
jgray505  
#3 Posted : Wednesday, March 24, 2010 4:59:40 AM(UTC)
jgray505

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 3/22/2010(UTC)
Posts: 2

Great info...thanks. I'll take a look at the keypad and look for common grounds in the non-working LEDs. However, as I recall, different lights worked intermittently. In other words, sometimes I could press the Heavy Cycle light and it would illuminate, other times it would not. The only lights that always seemed to work were the Normal and Energy Saver Dry lights. These also were the settings that I always chose for dishwashing. I tried to cycle the dishwasher through it's troubleshooting mode but it did not respond. There were 2 sequences of buttons to push, but neither worked. I'll let you know if I find anything out.
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