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aralph  
#1 Posted : Monday, March 22, 2010 11:34:19 AM(UTC)
aralph

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Serial number 11703286ct, mfg date 11/26/03. Getting F1 error. Flipped circuit breaker, same error. Looks like faulty clock (keeps switching back and forth between error & time and ":00") but I am not sure what part I need: ERC, control panel (screened?) and or membrane switch. Oven does not come on but range works.
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denman  
#2 Posted : Tuesday, March 23, 2010 2:05:02 AM(UTC)
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I cannot find any info on an ACS72370AB but there is info on a ACS7270AB.
Please check your model number.
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
aralph  
#3 Posted : Tuesday, March 23, 2010 4:19:16 AM(UTC)
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Originally Posted by: denman Go to Quoted Post
I cannot find any info on an ACS72370AB but there is info on a ACS7270AB.
Please check your model number.


That is correct. Took the plate off last night. It quit showing the error for now so I was unable to really troubleshoot. Unplugged clock ribbon from control panel but it never acted up again so not sure if it is a real problem or just intermittent.
denman  
#4 Posted : Tuesday, March 23, 2010 5:10:24 AM(UTC)
denman

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Here are your parts
Replacement parts for AMANA ACS7270AB Range - S/c S/i Ele | AppliancePartsPros.com

Here is the tech sheet
http://www.servicematters.com/maytag_library/docs/16023340.pdf

F1 looks like it is a shorted key error so I cannot explain why it disappeared.
Could be opening it up jarred it loose.

At least if it happens again you will have the tech sheet.
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
aralph  
#5 Posted : Tuesday, March 23, 2010 5:58:10 AM(UTC)
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I saw this already. F1 is back, and according to the tech sheet, it is a shorted input pad. But I cannot determine from this what part I need to replace. Looks like the fix is "replace mylar panel" but what is the corresponding part on your site? Is it the membrane switch or the ERC?
denman  
#6 Posted : Tuesday, March 23, 2010 6:59:32 AM(UTC)
denman

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Just a note that I do not work for AppliancePartsPros, I just hang out here and try to help a few people.

The keypad is Item 24 in Section 3.

I would not replace either component until I checked the keypad with a meter.
Your problem can be caused by either the control board (Item 22) or the keypad (Item 24) though the keypad is the more likely.

If the key pad checks out OK then odds are that the control board is the problem. See the tech sheet. Still a bit of a crap shoot but your odds are better.

If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.

There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
aralph  
#7 Posted : Tuesday, March 23, 2010 7:21:09 AM(UTC)
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Originally Posted by: denman Go to Quoted Post
Just a note that I do not work for AppliancePartsPros, I just hang out here and try to help a few people.

The keypad is Item 24 in Section 3.

I would not replace either component until I checked the keypad with a meter.
Your problem can be caused by either the control board (Item 22) or the keypad (Item 24) though the keypad is the more likely.

If the key pad checks out OK then odds are that the control board is the problem. See the tech sheet. Still a bit of a crap shoot but your odds are better.

If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.

There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.


If I disconnect the keypad from the control unit and I still get the error that would likely indicate a bad control unit correct?
denman  
#8 Posted : Tuesday, March 23, 2010 7:46:40 AM(UTC)
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Yes it would point toward a bad control board.
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
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