I took a look at the install manual and it does say that the green/yellow should go to the external screw along with the green from the line cord for a 4 wire hookup.
You could confirm this by tracing the green/yellow back, if it attaches to the frame then the above is true.
Here is your wiring diagram.
http://www.servicematters.com/docs/wiring/Wiring%20Sheet%20-%208528192.pdf[COLOR="Blue"]I took the cover off and replaced a bad thermal fuse which I am hoping will fix it.[/COLOR]
I am assuming that you check it with a meter and that is how you know it was blown, also that it was the thermal fuse by the heater.
There are some things you should check before hooking it up again, this will reduce the odds of it blowing again.
Note: that sometimes they do just blow on their own but changing it without checking other things is a gamble.
Check the heating coil.
Unplug the unit and both wires to the coil.
Check it with a meter, should be around 12 ohms.
Then check from each side of the coil to the case/frame, both should be infinite ohms (open). If not the coil may have sagged or broken and is touching the case. This can cause it to run on high and the thermostats cannot regulate it.
If the above is OK then you will also have to replace the hi-limit as it should have regulated the temperature so the fuse did not blow.
You still have to find out why it blew.
Check the seals (drum etc) in the unit. The air is pulled over the heating coils, through the drum and pushed out the exhaust. So any large seal leak will pull in room air and the cycling thermostat on the blower will run the unit hot.
Check that the lint filter is not coated with fabric softener residue which greatly reduces air flow.
Check/clean your vent system.
Check/clean the blower wheel.
If all OK you may want to replace the cycling thermostat as it's contacts may not be opening (welded shut).
Note: That if the fuse was blown and you still had some heat then this is a symptom that the element is grounded.
