LED and lights on control panel, just can't change anything. Checked thermal fuses and thermistor, all checked good. Checked windings on motor, 2.3 ohms for run, 3.6 ohms for start. Checked heating coil, good. I did membrane continuity check, all good. Checked 120 VAC on control card for motor, nothing. Also, no voltage for thermistor and no voltage for Sensor bar.
Replaced control card, same symptons.
Door switch checks out good.
Used a suicide plug and put 120VDC on motor, worked fine.
Ran continuity tests and all wiring appears to be good.
Beginning to suspect i was sent a bad replacement control card.
Anyone have any suggestions?

denman,
Thanks for the reply. I checked from the neutral to GY50 on the control board, GY 25 is the wire between the 2 thermal fuses, and got 2 ohms.
I also jumpered the contacts on the motor relay on the control board and plugged the dryer in and the motor started right up. With the new control board the time is different, on both the old and new boards I can put the dryer into diagnostic mode, where the "d" is showing in the LED but am able to do nothing else. None of the different button sequences on the membrane pad give any results.
I did a continuity test on the membrane pad and everything checked out, they were all open until pressed giving me a short.
The lackof 24 VDC on J4(3) and J4(4), sensor bar points me towards the control board.
I also am lacking 120VAC on BB1(2) to BB2(3), with the door closed. This voltage must be developed on the board as I've checked all of the inputs and outputs on the board.
When the dryer is energized I do have 120VAC across GY50 and BK 42 at the control board telling me the the contacts on the motor drive relay are open.
Also, while I had everything apart I did continuity checks on the wiring and the grounds.
Thanks and if you think of something else let me know.

As a follow up, I recieved a replacement control board at no cost, installed it and everything is working fine.