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I had the coils freeze up a month ago and then defrosted it by unplugging the power and cleaned underneath real good with vacume. Plugged it back in and frost began to build up on coils again and became warm within 2 weeks. After reading alot of info on this site, I checked for a defrost timer-this model doesn't have one- so went to next step of checking the defrost heater continuity-was fine-so then checked continuity on the defrost thermostat when it was frozen and it was fine- so is it my control board and which model # do I get if that would be my next step?
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So I put in the new control board last night at 6pm and set it to my fridge code # and it started working. I checked the coils this am and they are a little frosted, the compressor was running, and the fridge is at the right temp. How much frost should build up before the heater starts? Is there another way to force a defrost cycle on this model? I will be mad if this new control board doesn't fix the problem since it was $100. Please help! So I just looked at the tech sheets. I should have looked at these before I ordered the board. I will test the defrost cycle when I get home tonight.
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A light coating of frost is normal.
You may see more right now as the unit was filled with warm moist air.
Once it goes through a couple defrost cycles there will probably be less.
Frost/ice build up on the evaporator coils only becomes a problem when it builds up to the point where the evaporator fan cannot pull air through the coils |
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Great! Thanks for the info. I will see how it is doing tonight when I get home and report back my findings.
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So when I got home I forced the defrost cycle and it worked and then turned on after 15 min, therefore my heater is good and the control board is good. I will let it go now and see how it does. If it starts to build up a lot more then I know to replace my thermostat......right?, but when I checked it for continuity, it had it when it was frozen and then was open when at room temp.
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I would interpret your results differently.
The heater came on with a forced defrost so the heater is good and the thermostat is good.
All that is left is the control board as the problem.
It is not unheard of to get a defective part but I would give it at least a couple days before concluding this.
Check to ensure that the door switch is working, i think that on this unit the number of open/close of the door determines the frequency of the defrost cycle. |
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Ahhhggg! It doesn't seem to have defrosted since I forced the cycle. It is getting pretty frosted up now! It has the new control board in it. The switch for the fridge door seems to be working fine...the light goes on and off and when I run the defrost test the switch works. What else could it be? A bad "new" control board? Please help!
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[COLOR="Blue"]A bad "new" control board?[/COLOR]
That is would be my conclusion.
By the sound of it you have tried the forced defrost a few times and it always works so i have to conclude the heater and defrost thermostat must be OK.
The thermostat's can go intermittent but you should have seen it at least once during your tests.
Only other thing I can think of is that a thermistor is doing something weird but your temperatures seem to be OK once the unit defrosts so this would be a long shot. I would check their resistances just in case. |
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