Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 3/31/2008(UTC) Posts: 322
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The shaft is part of the gear case so you have to pull the outer tub to get that out. I ran into this before but I cant remember exactly what I did to get the bearing out. I think in one case I had to pull the gear case out anyway, so I just gave the gear case a few good tugs and managed to break it loose. But yours may be stuck on shaft tighter than that one was. Maybe setting up an impact or vibration on the bearing itself will break its grip. You might be able to take a piece of pipe that would go around the shaft and have the end of the pipe seat against the bearing itself, make sure its long enough to extend past the transmission shaft to avoid damage to it, And set some impact against the bearing itself to try and break its grip. Just be careful not to damage anything on the transmission shaft. Hope this helps.
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 4/8/2008(UTC) Posts: 13
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Thanks for sticking with me on this one. I tried an air hammer and cutting tool to no avail. Just dulled the tool. I used a deep socket on the shaft and hit it with a hammer a few times, didn't budge. I am heading to home depot to buy a dremel drill and a cutting tool to see if can cut it off. If that doesnt work, I will be asking you for instructions on how to remove the transmission. You know, this is discouraging as I can usually fix most things. The tub and bearing seals were a piece of cake compared to this. I was told that the lower bearing is not difficult to replace. I have rebuilt engines in less time than I have spent on this washer.
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 4/8/2008(UTC) Posts: 13
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Okay, problem solved. I ended up cutting the old bearing off with a dremel cutting tool. I would not recommend this approach as it is time consuming. In the "lessons learned"" section I would advise when replacing the tub seal you take the next step and replace the bearing while the outer tub is already out. The brake was full of water and appears to be working fine after drying out Thanks for all the help!!
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 3/31/2008(UTC) Posts: 322
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Originally Posted by: Lawnboy Okay, problem solved. I ended up cutting the old bearing off with a dremel cutting tool. I would not recommend this approach as it is time consuming. It doesn’t look like you had much choice. Quote: In the "lessons learned"" section I would advise when replacing the tub seal you take the next step and replace the bearing while the outer tub is already out.
When I was in the field that was always part of the job. No, the customer wasn’t thrilled about paying the extra coin for the bearing. But you can better believe they would have been pissed if I had to go back out and tear into the washer again because I didn’t replace it to begin with. Quote: The brake was full of water and appears to be working fine after drying out Thanks for all the help!!
Just a heads up, That break package does have lubrication in it. You don’t need to pull the brake apart to do it. about a tablespoon of 90 weight oil is all it needs.
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 4/8/2008(UTC) Posts: 13
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I hear ya. People don't have a problem buying something new but when repairs are needed (and if mechanical it will need service eventually) they will choose the cheapest parts and minimal service required. The repair industry is a tough one and to be successful it helps to be a people person when explaining their options. I do some works on cars, outboards and small engines and I tell people that I would prefer they pay a couple bucks more for quality parts. That way, they won't be seeing me anytime soon. I hear the sweet sound of the washing machine in the backgroud. No more leaks and we don't have to turn the TV up while it's running. Thanks again for your help!!
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