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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert, Administrators Joined: 7/19/2007(UTC) Posts: 27,455
Was thanked: 4 time(s) in 4 post(s)
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 2/22/2010(UTC) Posts: 9
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Originally Posted by: Gene Gene, Thanks for the quick replies. I have not checked the solenoids, as I do not have a multimeter. I will pick one up this week and check if it is not the safety latch, which it appears it is not. My q pertaining to the safety valve: should I be able to see the "ON" like in this pic ( Part Details - WHIRLPOOL Gas valve/regulator, part number: AP3866825, or should the safety latch be down, and thus covering the "ON"? It was uncovered, and "ON" was visible when I removed the storage drawer to look at the gas valve. But if it was accidentally tripped, then I should not be able to see the "ON" letters while the safety switch is off. Thanks. Sorry if my q is confusing.
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert, Administrators Joined: 7/19/2007(UTC) Posts: 27,455
Was thanked: 4 time(s) in 4 post(s)
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Originally Posted by: hlr18 Gene, Thanks for the quick replies. I have not checked the solenoids, as I do not have a multimeter. I will pick one up this week and check if it is not the safety latch, which it appears it is not. My q pertaining to the safety valve: should I be able to see the "ON" like in this pic ( Part Details - WHIRLPOOL Gas valve/regulator, part number: AP3866825, or should the safety latch be down, and thus covering the "ON"? It was uncovered, and "ON" was visible when I removed the storage drawer to look at the gas valve. But if it was accidentally tripped, then I should not be able to see the "ON" letters while the safety switch is off. Thanks. Sorry if my q is confusing. That switch opens and closes gas flow through the valve. Gas flow is open when the "ON" is visible and this is normal position for the switch. Gene.
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 2/22/2010(UTC) Posts: 9
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Ok, then it must not be the safety valve that is the issue, as it was in the correct operational position when I first located it. Time to get that multimeter. I'll follow up after I get it. Thanks again!
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 2/20/2010(UTC) Posts: 20
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I have a similar problem I have posted clearly about over a week ago. So I will assume I should get my lazy ass up and logic that this is the thread on this deal.. I would just like to point out that it works intermittently. I just pounded the shit out of the uppermost cover plate over the bottom burner and it lit. I am going with solenoid, and hoping not the safety valve.... All sparking good and smell startup gas. Just wont lite sometimes.. 4 clicks and out. Then All shuts off normally.
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 2/20/2010(UTC) Posts: 20
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Further note. I just went to searsparts as I purchased the rande there. You would think they would have the part. The part they list not only does not have the whirlpool part number, but they give another part number substitute option that is not made by Whirlpool either, AND COSTS 30 bucks more. Sears is crooks selling cheap Chinese knockoffs for inflated prices., go figure...
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 3/1/2010(UTC) Posts: 1
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bbc3.. i just bought this same part from sears and i know what your talking about... maybe they dont have the part in stock from their supplier?
however, it looks exactly the same as teh original... (i dont think its a chinese ripoff)
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 2/22/2010(UTC) Posts: 9
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Finally got a multimeter. That middle wire was a pain to disconnect, just wouldnt budge for the longest time.
Anyhow, getting 199-200 ohms between the bottom and middle, and nothing with any oher combo.
Does that mean I need a new gas valve regulator? And if so, it sounds like I should avoid Sears....
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert, Administrators Joined: 7/19/2007(UTC) Posts: 27,455
Was thanked: 4 time(s) in 4 post(s)
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The gas valve/regulator is the culprit. No doubt about it.
Sears...It's a good question.
Gene.
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