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Bought this used and has been working ok. Now it will cycle but not fill with water. Friend told me do this: Use multimeter with one probe on one wire of fill valve and other probe on frame. check each wire. I did and each measures 120v. Friend said this means board is bad. I opened up the control panel area and found the thermal fuse bypassed. I am wondering (before going any further) of this type of "repair" could cause the problem I'm having now. (I did check the float and it is moving freely).
Sorry, model is 665.16764000. Typo.
Update: Looked at the fuse bypass and found the bypass wire had "welded" itself to a brown wire inside the control panel. I freed up the wire, covered the bare areas with tape and tested the unit, but that didn't change anything.
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Here is your tech sheet, http://www.servicematters.com/d...0Sheet%20-%208533345.pdfCheck across the valve with your meter. If you get 120 volts when the unit should be filling, then try the following:. Check that there is water getting to the unit. Remove the water valve and check/clean the screen filter on it's input side. Do not permanently remove the screen from the valve as it is there to keep crud out of the valve, which could hold it open and cause a flood. If the screen is clean, I would replace the valve. If there is no 120 volts across the valve. Then check from the board side of the fill valve to the board side of the overfill switch. If you now have 120 volts then the overfill switch is not closing or it's contacts are toast. If there is no 120 then remove power from the unit and check the wires from the valve and switch back to the board for continuity. If OK, then probably the control board is toast. |
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Denman:
Help me out, I am ignorant in the ways of electrical speak. When you say check across the valve, do you mean one probe on each terminal?
Also, board side of fill valve to board side of overflow switch, do you mean the wires that run to the board?
And finally, my multi-meter is pretty old, but still works. The markings are faded, but I can't see where the setting for the switch would be to check continuity. I know it has the capability, as there is a place for a 1.5 battery. Shouldn't it say something like rx1?
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[COLOR="Blue"]When you say check across the valve, do you mean one probe on each terminal?[/COLOR]
Yes
[COLOR="Blue"]
Also, board side of fill valve to board side of overflow switch, do you mean the wires that run to the board?[/COLOR]
Yes. Basically you are checking the fill valve and the overflow switch at the same time.
[COLOR="Blue"]And finally, my multi-meter is pretty old, but still works. The markings are faded, but I can't see where the setting for the switch would be to check continuity. I know it has the capability, as there is a place for a 1.5 battery. Shouldn't it say something like rx1?[/COLOR]
Depends on the meter re: is it push button or rotary dial.
rx1 is more of an analogue meter type scale.
Digital meters are usually 200, 2K, 20K e4tc.
The number is the highest resistance that the meter can read.
For instance a 300 ohm resistor will show an open on the 200 ohm scale but will read 300 on the 2K (2000) ohm scale.
Set the meter to where you think it should read ohms.
The display is often a 1. or nothing re: an open.
Then short the leads together you should get a 0.00 or close |
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Looking at my multimeter (like I said pretty old). From 12 o'clock position going clockwise: 10 50 25 500 are marked DCV; then 500, 250, 50 are marked ACV; then an unmarked stop; then 250m 50m marked DCA; then 1.5v AA, 9v, 1.5v button are marked Batt; then another unmarked stop. I remember using this thing to measure resistance years ago (it has a ohm scale on the gauge and an adjustment knob, and a place for a AA battery), but I can't find the owners manual. Anyone out there know about this type of meter? (I know I know buy a new one)....still...
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Perhaps if you give the make and model number of the meter I may be able to find some info on it on the net.
From your description of the scales it does not appear to be able to read ohms (resistance) but this would be strange for a multimeter to not include ohms.
Could it be that you have to mnoce a meter lead to another connector to read ohms?? |
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There is no brand name on it. On the back it has China and 9801 below that. At the top of the back is a logo like a crown with wings on the sides. There is a ohm scale on the dial. " Could it be that you have to mnoce a meter lead to another connector to read ohms??" I don't know what mnoce is. I have attached images of the meter. Not great, but I am using a new operating system (linux) and not good with the image editing software yet. Friday attached the following image(s):
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OK, I have done the following:
1. Check across the valve with your meter. No voltage.
2. If there is no 120 volts across the valve. Then check from the board side of the fill valve to the board side of the overfill switch. No voltage.
Cannot do the last part till I buy a new meter.
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[COLOR="Blue"]I don't know what mnoce is. [/COLOR]
I guess I could say it was a typo but it is not even close to "move".
In any case it does not look like it has a third lead connector.
Yes, does look like a resistance scale on the meter scale.
You could try a little spit on the rotary dial markings.
I do this to get numbers off IC's and transistors works quite often.
Also you could install a battery, short the leads together and when the needle takes off to the right you have found a resistance scale.
If the wires from the valve and switch are OK.
Then measure on the control board P7 to P8, to ensure you have 120 volts when both door switches are closed.
If OK
Then it looks like the control board is toast.
A new board and a thermal fuse kit will run you around $170.00.
I am not sure it is worth putting that many dollars into this unit.
Especially as there may be another part that caused the board to blow. |
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Originally Posted by: denman  A new board and a thermal fuse kit will run you around $170.00. I am not sure it is worth putting that many dollars into this unit. Especially as there may be another part that caused the board to blow. I think you are right. I'm going to go ahead and do the p7 p8 measurement just for closure. Then I will probably close this thing down. Thanx for all your help.
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