Yes, Ok It Washes but Wont Do the Final Spin ( Extraction )? Had a Sears Tech out n was Told that it Would Cost More than the Unit was Worth? Then he said that it Need'd a New Wax Motor, n a Motor Control Kit? Hav Lookd at Several Maytag Repair Forums, n they Mention R11, Q6 or a R43, Resisters on the Control Boards? Well I've Check these n they ALL Look Ok? So... Under the Sears Techs Reconmendation I hav Replaced the Wax Motor, n the Motor Control Board/ Motor? Well Guess What, It Still Dosnt Spin? My Next Thought is to Replace the Upper Control Board, that has the R11, n Q6 Resisters. Any Ideas? Your Help Would be Greatfully Apprecaited. Thank You, Raymond

Ohhh' K ? These are ALL New Parts that I Install'd !!! Thanks

I also have a Mle2000ayw that had a no-spin problem but the door lock and light worked fine. I pulled the board and resistor r-43 was burned. I replaced it with a 18K, 1/4 watt, 5% carbon type resistor. It worked fine for 2 loads then quit spinning again after a load of towels. I checked everything again. Main board, motor board, wax motor, out of balance switches...... I couldn't find a thing wrong. I was just getting ready to call a pro but decided to check the pump again. (it was fine) While I was back there, I pulled the small panel for the water inlet off and shined a flashlight in there and saw the connector for the out of balance switches. I was taking this apart to check continuity and one of the wires pulled out of the connector very easily. I pushed it back in tight and checked the circuit with an ohmeter and it wes fine (closed). I snapped the connector back together and for the fun of it tried the spin cycle and it worked fine!!! I guess the big load of towels shook it loose. Hope this helps. Bob

On mine the loose wire was going into a plastic connector to the dryer unit. It was just loose in the connector and I just pushed it in tighter till it snapped in then wrapped it with electrical tape.You know those connectors that a bunch of wires go into both sides and you can just unplug the connector to seperate the wires. I accessed it from the rear of the washer by taking out the small panel that the water hook ups go thru. Also if this is the problem check the main control board (in the top of the dryer) to make sure all resisters are good. Look at all the resistors and you can see if they are discolored. Mine had a resistor blown on R13. I just removed the board and attached hemostats to the leads going into R13 (for heat sinks) and heated up the solder from the bottom of the board to remove the resistor then reversed the process to solder in a new one. You have to be careful when soldering as the leads are very close together on the back of the board. This worked fine when nothing else would. The whole repair cost me 4 cents for the resistor but lots of lost time figuring out the problem. I hope this helps!