My dishwasher is not letting water flow inside. I read online that there are two likely causes - a stuck float switch and a bad water inlet valve. After confirming that the float switch was working, I ordered a new water inlet valve for $55. I also confirmed that the water hose feeding the valve was not clogged and that the elbow fitting connecting the hose to the valve was unobstructed.

Tonight I installed the valve, reconnected the water hose, and reconnected the wiring. Nothing has changed. When I start the washer it starts running but no water flows inside.

What else can I try to replace?

FYI - I just moved into a bank-owned home that sat unoccupied for about 13 months. Various plumbing-related things throughout the house are not working, one of which is the dishwasher. I believe it was new with the house, built in 2004.

Here are your parts
Replacement parts for General Electric GSD2200G02CC Dishwasher | AppliancePartsPros.com

[COLOR="Blue"]I also confirmed that the water hose feeding the valve was not clogged and that the elbow fitting connecting the hose to the valve was unobstructed.[/COLOR]
Did you do this by actually running water into a pail?

[COLOR="Blue"]What else can I try to replace?[/COLOR]
I wold not replace anything, I would get a meter and check the overflow switch, should be 0 ohms.
If OK then plug the unit in and check from one side of the overflow switch to the far side of the water valve.

If you do see 120 volts then the problem is in the valve/water supply.

If there is no 120 unplug the unit and check the wires for continuity from the timer to the valve/overflow switch devices.
If all OK then probably your timer is toast.

[COLOR="Blue"]Could this be an electrical problem?[/COLOR]
Yes, could be a broken wire or a loose connection.
[COLOR="Blue"]
could there be a broken switch or relay somewhere that's not sending signals to it?[/COLOR]
The voltage for the valve comes directly from the timer but does run through the float/overflow switch.

If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.

There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.

[COLOR="Blue"]Thanks for the suggestions using the multimeter. I do have a good one, but honestly I'm not sure that I'd recognize the correct wires to test.[/COLOR]
Is not difficult. There should be a wire that runs from the float over to the water valve. You want to measure the other two.
Meter lead---wire from control---float switch---wire ---water valve--- meter lead
If no 120
Then remove power from the unit.
Remove the door's inner panel
And check the wires visually and then for continuity. They are color coded and should be easy to trace.
Remember to disconnect one end of the wire when checking it. This ensures you do not read an alternate/parallel circuit path. Also use your most sensitive ohms setting.