Here are your parts includes a wiring diagram
Replacement parts for ADMIRAL ADE7000AYW Dryer - Ele | AppliancePartsPros.com[COLOR="Blue"]Wifey had a load in and at some point it stopped. No start.
Theres no light inside.[/COLOR]
[COLOR="Blue"]The timer seems to be working 'cause I hear it clicking[/COLOR].
Timer is hard wired directly to Neutral and L1 so it tells toyu that you do have 120 volts on that side of the line re: power is probably good.
[COLOR="Blue"]Here's what I've done so far:
- checked circuit breaker, reset it slowly several times.[/COLOR]
Timer running so power seems OK.
[COLOR="Blue"]- pulled the dryer vent tube off; pretty disgusting inside- definately needs to be cleaned[/COLOR]
Once fixed be sure to give the interior a good cleaning also clean/check your vents system
[COLOR="Blue"]- there is a thermo switch at the top of the dryer rear that is next to the heater coils; pulled the two red wires, taped them together temporarily -- Made no differance, still no start and no light inside[/COLOR]
There should be two thermostats on the heater. One is the hi-limit, this will have no effect on starting.
The other is the thermal fuse, it will stop the unit from running. See the parts breakdown for which is which.
I think you shorted out the hi-limit.
[COLOR="Blue"]- there is another thermo-looking switch near the bottom front,next to the blower motor. This one has four wires coming off it - yellow/top,red/bottom,blue/side,white/side. Didnt do anything with this one yet.[/COLOR]
This is the main thermostat (cycling), it will have no effect on starting the unit. The reason it has 4 connections is that it has an internal heater which is used to adjust the dry temperatures.
If the thermal fuse s OK then the next thing to check is the door switch.
Odds are that the thermal fuse is blown.
Unplug the unit and check it with a meter, should be 0 ohms.
Be sure to unplug one side of it when checking it.
If it is blown you have to find out what caused it to go.
Note: that sometimes they do just blow on their own but changing it without checking other things is a gamble.
Check the heating coil.
Unplug the unit and both wires to the coil.
Check it with a meter, should be around 12 ohms.
Then check from each side of the coil to the case/frame, both should be infinite ohms (open). If not the coil may have sagged or broken and is touching the case. This can cause it to run on high and the thermostats cannot regulate it.
If the above is OK then you will also have to replace the hi-limit as it should have regulated the temperature so the fuse did not blow.
You still have to find out why it blew.
Check the seal (drum etc) in the unit. The air is pulled over the heating coils, through the drum and pushed out the exhaust. So any large seal leak will pull in room air and the cycling thermostat on the blower will run the unit hot.
Check that the lint filter is not coated with fabric softener residue which greatly reduces air flow.
Check/clean your vent system.
Check/clean the blower wheel.
If all OK you may want to replace the cycling thermostat as it's contacts may not be opening (welded shut).
If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.
There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.
