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Hi Gene, hoping for your help again
No dryer heat on a gas whirlpool dryer...I've replace the coils, the thermal sensor and the ignitor....what now?? LGN2000LWO
Leesa
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Hi Leesa, Did you check for continuity the thermal fuse (#7 on the break down diagram)? Gene.
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I haven't, I'll check that. Is there another part that is getting weak if it is the thermal fuse?
Leesa:confused:
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Whirlpool recommended to replace the cycling thermostat (#9 on the break down diagram) too if the thermal fuse is open. Also check the exhaust line (inside & outside) for any blockage. Gene.
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Thanks Gene, I changed the fuse and thermostat and we're up and running once again:) thanks for your help!!
Leesa
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Rank: Advanced Member
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I'm glad you were able to fix it. Happy Holidays!
Gene.
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Merry Christmas to you too!!:p
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I have the same issue, dryer spins with no heat. First i just ordered the element and the manual, i install the element no joy. i read out cont. on the old element, reads good. i follow troubleshooting through the manual, i read out the thermal fuse, thermostat, and the thermostat that attaches to the coil on the lower side, they read bad with cont. Okay so now im at a stand point i just received the new parts in, installed them and stiil NO JOY. okay, so i check around the forum and find a post about the voltage supply from the wall, i read out the cable and it only gets 110v, should i be reading out more than one wire??? is there more than one power wire, are they in phase? i pulled the panel on my circuit breaker box and read out the power going into the breaker, it reads 240v and 0 tripped. I believe that means the breaker is good? Can anyone please give me some advice.....summary
1. replaced thermal fuse
2. replaced thermostat
3. replaced thermostat attached to element
4. element reads good with 0 ohms.
yes all wires were disconneted when i read them out.
5. could possibly be a voltage issue, as i dont know if there is 240v? it reads 110v on the yellow to ground and red to ground.
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Had you check the voltage at the wall outlet or at the dryer terminal block?
There are three wires - two hot and one neutral. Each hot to neutral should read 120 VAC and between both hot should be 240 VAC. If there is only 120 VAC is coming to the dryer, then everything will work except the heating element which requires 240 VAC.
Gene.
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Originally Posted by: Gene  Had you check the voltage at the wall outlet or at the dryer terminal block?
There are three wires - two hot and one neutral. Each hot to neutral should read 120 VAC and between both hot should be 240 VAC. If there is only 120 VAC is coming to the dryer, then everything will work except the heating element which requires 240 VAC.
Gene. Gene, I read out the terminal block on the dryer and i found that the black and red are hot, with the yellow, green, and green w/ white stripe are neutral. can you post a picture of how it should be wired for a 4 prong power cable, or point me in the right direction? thank you !!
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