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Replacement parts for WHIRLPOOL KUDI01FLSS3 Undercounter Dishwasher | AppliancePartsPros.comHere is the tech sheet
http://www.servicematters.com/docs/wiring/Tech%20Sheet%20-%208537797.pdf[COLOR="Blue"]
Every cycle has been tried, but still water never enters the washer. Float valve in basket is free and clear with no sign of hanging up. First part replaced to solve the problem was the inlet valve, but again, no luck. Question now is what's the next logical choice of a part to replace[/COLOR]
I would say neither as throwing parts at it will cost you a small fortune.
Better to use a meter and narrow down the odds of replacing the correct part.
I am assuming that you have checked the water supply to the unit and it is OK.
First when in fill I would check across the water valve just to be sure it is not getting voltage. It is not unheard of to get a bad part right out of the box.
If no voltage.
Then check across the overfill switch. Just because the float is holding it closed does not mean that the contacts in the switch are closing.
If you have 120 volts across it then it is toast and needs replacing.
If no voltage then I would check the wires from the contol panel to the water valve/overflow switch for continuity.
If OK then you could try diagnostics.
My guess would be that the control board is gone as the unit does seem to run the cycle correctly.
If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.
There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.
