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No Heat - Least Costly Path To Diagnose and Fix?
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Joined: 1/23/2010(UTC) Posts: 5
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Should I first try to replace suspect culprits in the following order...
Thermal fuse?
Thermostats?
Heater elements?
Thanks much!
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I have taken a looksee on the marvelous app lookup. This dryer has a duct fuse mounted on the rear blower housing next to the control thermostat. A skinny white fuse with 2 small wires. It is connected on the same circuit as the door switch. So if the dryer runs, nope the fuse ain't it. Most of the time the safety thermostats will be ok UNLESS you find a blocked vent or heavy lint in the dryer. If you do have lint then the limits mounted on the heating element chamber will come into play. Check them for continuity, most of the time the small one is blown but both are bad. Why? Because the larger one trips at a lower temp than the smaller one. So if the itty bitty one is bad the bigger one is too. They are sold in pairs and the manufacturer wants them both replaced as a pair. The element it self will some times give a clue on physical examination but it is best to check it with a meter.If it does not have continuity it is bad. All of these things by the way can be accessed by removing the rear dust cover. Be sure to disconnect power from the appliance and clean out the dryer. clear the outside venting and vent pipe and oil those rollers. Here is a basic manual and some repair photos: Kenmore/Whirlpool/Estate/Roper Dryer Pics (SublimeMasterJW's Appliance Advice) I forgot to mention one thing. This dryer is worth the investment to repair and replace any and all components in it. It is way better than any of the newer more expensive junk out there. None of the above parts are expensive nor is it hard to repair anything about this fine dryer. Thank you for posting to APP forums
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 1/23/2010(UTC) Posts: 5
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Thanks for the suggestions. So if I understand you correctly, the thin white thermal fuse is okay if the dryer is tumbling anyway. So it leads to replacing both thermastats (250 and 150 degree) babies right? Agree that overall, this Whirlpool has been a reliable workhorse for over 10 years going...
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Joined: 5/6/2008(UTC) Posts: 724
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It would be best to check continuity before ordering so that you can save money. It could be the element, the safety's the power source or the timer. So check some stuff first.
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 1/23/2010(UTC) Posts: 5
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Thanks, continuity was good on both thermostats and the thermal fuse (used one of those hand-held audible continuity checkers, no meter reading ... just the beep). Also pulled off the heater panel and check the heater coils -- seem all intact without any breaks. Lint is cleared away. Not sure what else it could be. Hmmm?
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 1/23/2010(UTC) Posts: 5
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I'll also check the timer (60 hz) but I can't identify the "safety" to the power source (?). Thanks.
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 5/6/2008(UTC) Posts: 724
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Find the red wire on the timer from heat element and check that terminal for continuity with any other terminal on the timer. Move the dial to different points on the timer, if you cannot get a reading anywhere on the timer between the heater element leg and any other terminal on the timer then the timer is defective. To do continuity tests remove the wire so as not to get false reading. If the timer checks good you have an electrical problem, bad breaker, receptacle, wiring etc.
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 1/23/2010(UTC) Posts: 5
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Thanks again. I'll need to get a continuity visual meter (analog or digital) versus just an audible one to test between the red terminal and the others. As I believe you to say the meter device will be more accurate. Thanks again for your quick reply. Real valuable.
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No Heat - Least Costly Path To Diagnose and Fix?
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