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bjmyers70  
#1 Posted : Wednesday, January 20, 2010 11:10:38 AM(UTC)
bjmyers70

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My dryer spins and blows air but no heat. It's not element or fuse. Also has correct voltage at outlet. Any idea what it could be?
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denman  
#2 Posted : Thursday, January 21, 2010 4:02:56 AM(UTC)
denman

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Here are your parts
Replacement parts for WHIRLPOOL REL3612BW2 | AppliancePartsPros.com

Here is the wiring diagram
http://www.servicematters.com/docs/wiring/Wiring%20Sheet%20-%203401728.pdf
[COLOR="Blue"]
It's not element or fuse.[/COLOR]
Did you remove at least one side of the device when measuring it?
This ensures that you did not read a parallel/alternate circuit path.
I am assuming that the fuse you checked was the one on the heater Item 6 in Section 3. The one on the blower is for the motor.
[COLOR="Blue"]
Also has correct voltage at outlet.[/COLOR]
Check the unit's terminal strip for a loose connection or a burned off wire.
Check for power at the terminal strip. It is not unheard of for a line cord to go open. Just be very careful as 240 volts is lethal.

Check the operating thermostat and the hi-limit thermostat.

Check that the Timer Switch 2 contacts are closed

If all the above are OK all that is left is a bad wire or the centrifugal switch on the motor.
This you could check by removing the wires, shorting them together, taping them up so they cannot short to anything else or get caught in the drive. Then giving it a try, if you get heat the switch is gone and unfortunately you will have to replace the motor as the switches are built in.

I am off to the lake for a few days so the below is just in case you checked the wrong fuse.
If it is blown you have to find out what caused it to go.

Check the heating coil.
Unplug the unit and both wires to the coil.
Check it with a meter, should be around 10 ohms.
Then check from each side of the coil to the case/frame, both should be infinite ohms (open). If not the coil may have sagged or broken and is touching the case. This can cause it to run on high and the thermostats cannot regulate it.

If the heater is OK then I would also replace the hi-limit thermostat as this should have regulated the temperature so that the fuse did not blow.

You still have to find the cause.
It could be:
A dirty/loose blower wheel
A dirty vent system or it's outside louvers are not opening.
A bad cycling (control) thermostat. Note this is a 4 connector thermostat.
One set is the contacts. The other set is the internal heater, should be around 25,000 ohms. This is used to give you different heat settings.
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
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