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My gas range works great, my broiler also works fine. The digital panel works perfectly. My problem is that the bottom part of the oven will not ignite. I have taken it apart to look at it but since I know nothing about gas appliances I dont want to take the risk of blowing my house up. I need some advice on how to fix or replace the ignitor or whatever is wrong with my oven. PLEASE HELP, I CANT AFFORD A NEW OVEN!!!!!!!! Thank you, Brian
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert, Administrators Joined: 7/19/2007(UTC) Posts: 27,455
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Hi Brian,
In order to provide the most accurate advise I need the complete model number of the range. You can find it on the frame behind the bottom drawer.
Gene.
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 3/1/2008(UTC) Posts: 3
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert, Administrators Joined: 7/19/2007(UTC) Posts: 27,455
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Hi fred0502, Most likely the problem with your oven is a bad bake igniter (#16 on the manifold break down diagram). Remove the bottom drawer and check the igniter for continuity. Check if 120V is coming to the igniter while the control calls for "bake". If there is 120V and/or the igniter is open - replace the igniter. In order to access the bake igniter you have to remove the oven floor and the flame spreader. - The part number for the bake igniter is AP3104565 Here are the break down diagrams for the Whirlpool range Model SF360BEEW0List of all 465 models: Whirlpool 465 parts Gene.
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 3/1/2008(UTC) Posts: 3
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Thanks Gene.
After reading other threads further, I came to the same conclusion and checked and found 120V present. Ordered the part yesterday.
Will update when it arrives.
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 3/1/2008(UTC) Posts: 3
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Got the part yesterday and proceeded to install.
1) Its easier to remove the whole bar that the ignitor/bracket is attached to and work on it separately rather than futzing around in the back of the oven.
2) The machine screws holding the ignitor bracket to the bar had hex heads that were basically welded on probably due to the heat. Couldn't remove them with nut driver/socket and eventually one head broke off completely.
3) Had to pry/drill out remaining screw and a half and look for new ones. New machine screws stripped themselves in opening and hopefully the larger ones I found as replacements can stand up to the heat without melting.
4) Put bar with new ignitor/bracket back in and put all back together and presto -- oven works normally. Wife happy again.
Thanks.
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert, Administrators Joined: 7/19/2007(UTC) Posts: 27,455
Was thanked: 4 time(s) in 4 post(s)
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I'm glad you were able to fix it.
Gene.
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 3/8/2008(UTC) Posts: 3
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I replaced the bake igniter yesterday. Cooktop & broiler are working fine, but the oven still isn't getting propane. The igniter is working as it should. Any other suggestions? Thanks.
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert, Administrators Joined: 7/19/2007(UTC) Posts: 27,455
Was thanked: 4 time(s) in 4 post(s)
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Hi garyleena,
In order to provide most accurate advise I need the complete model number of the unit and more specific description of the original problem.
Gene.
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 3/8/2008(UTC) Posts: 3
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Hi Gene,
Thanks for responding. The original problem was that propane was not getting to the igniter. I replaced the regulator first & it corrected the propane issue, so that propane is now getting to the igniter. A new problem occurred. The oven flame is not buring clean & the flame extends way outside of the flame spreader. The burner tops & broiler have & still work perfectly fine.
Any idea on how to adjust the flame, so the oven will work correctly?
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