Which part do you have?

If this is the correct part then the installation instructions must be included.

If you mean the universal part then it's not going to work and I do not have any diagrams for this switch.

Gene.

What is the complete model number of the range?

Where did you order the part from?

Gene.

Gene, hello I am about to order the same part for my frigidaire electric cooktop model # FEC30S6HBA. The dual burner has gone out, no matter were you turn it, it no longer turns on. I am about to order the part but I have a question. The hot surface light is now on and won't turn off. My question is the following, will replacing the burner switch fix the hot furnace light being on problem or is this maybe part of another problem?

Any input?
Gil

I'm no expert on the topic. I can tell you that when I replaced the switch, the light went out on my cooktop, so I would assume it would do the same for you.

Just a note and Gene can correct me here. The wiring instructions on the APP part AP3775555 were sufficient but what I did notice was that ON THE OLD BLACK SWITCH (see picture below) is that there are TWO sets of wires that go to the "N" connection. The PINK wires and the RED wire.

The confusing part is: Is that on the replacement switch you have an (L2) connection with one pin and an (L2B) connection with two pins to connect wires too.

Option 1: On the new switch I was not sure if to place the PINK and RED wires side by side on the (L2B) connection.

OR

Option 2: Place the pink wire on the (L2) connection and the red on the (L2B) connection or vice a versa but they would not be side by side as they were on the old switch (N) connection.

I reasoned with common sense and went with option 1 and placed them side by side on the (L2B) pins since I figured that they were together on the old (N) connection and not separate. After a prayer I turned it on and it worked just fine.

All the other wires are clear cut based on the wiring instructions that come with the part. What would of helped on the new wiring instructions is something that notes something like (L2) = DO NOT CONNECT WIRE HERE as there are a couple of pins that stay free when you are done.

If I get a chance I will go back under tonight and post a picture of the new part and how the wires were connected.

Once last comment after installing the part I can see now, when you are CLEANING the glass top surface with the knobs taken off and with the special creams made for cleaning them, windex or just plain old soap and water, if YOUR NOT CAREFUL, these liquids can make their way down onto the top of the switch and damage them.

I wish that the rubber bushing that goes below the knob had a tighter gap around neck of the switch itself to keep liquids and debree out.

If you are a a very clean individual, and go happy with the liquids, then just be careful. My wife removes the knobs to clean the glass top and she is not happy until she gets a mirror shine on the glass top. At $150+ a part I will need to stay on top of this. :cool:

OLD SWITCH PICTURE