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A couple of questions. Can the evaporator fan motor test procedures for the GE (PS* & GS*) models also be applied to the GBS20KBRCWW model? After trying those procedures the results were spot on with the ones posted in the article explaining the tests. I'm also curious if the WR60X10185 evap motor can be substituted for the WR6010196? Huge price difference but they appear to be the same motor.
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Wow, what a price difference. I can't get any specs. for either motor. If your old motor is stamped 115 volts, you can use a universal motor SM999, a much better motor. This motor comes as a universal kit with all the parts needed, rubber grommets and shaft slinger. You will need to verify the motor turns in the same direction of the old motor, just stick on the fan blade, apply 115 volts and verify it turns in the right direction to blow air. If not, you will have to reverse the motor armature to reverse direction of rotation. Also, install the slinger disk on the motor shaft below the fan blade. This ensures moisture will not go into the motor bearings.
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Rank: Member
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All of the websites I've found that had replacement motors for my GE fridge called for the WR60X10196 motor priced anywhere from $130.00 up to $180.00. I found a couple of photos of the WR60X10185 and it appears identical to my faulty fan. It is priced around $40.00. The motor I removed from my freezer is stamped 9.75V DC 2.4W while the WR60X10185 is stamped 9.75V DC 3.25W. I know as much about electricity as Mike Tyson does about manners & etiquette. Would the wattage difference create an unsafe condition or even function properly?
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Rank: Advanced Member
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The replacement motor draws .01 amp more than the old one. Insignificant to cause any problems with the pc board drive. Just make sure the physical dimensions are the same, shaft length,diameter, and motor housing.
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Rank: Member
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First off I have to give a big thumbs up to AppliancePartsPros.com. I ordered the WR60X10185 evap fan motor around 4:00am on Thursday, February 28th and it arrived at my doorstep by 3:00pm the next day. WOW! The WR60X10185 motor comes with a slightly longer shaft than the WR60X10196 but it was easily swapped out with the one from my defective motor. The motor housing, bearing housings, plug, color coding of wires and wire length were all identical. I used the sharp edge of an old knife and was able to pry open the bearing housing on the opposite end of the shaft on both motors which enabled me to remove and swap the shafts. I was very careful when reinstalling the bearing cap to ensure it was straight and seated fully. There is a very small ring (I mean tiny 1/8" approx) that slides off the shafts as they were removed but it slides back on easily once the shafts were swapped and reinstalled. As of this writing my fridge and more importantly my beer are frosty cold. :) The price difference between the two motors is laughable. They are essentially the same with the $40.00 motor probably costing more to produce because of the longer shaft. Oh well, go figure. Richappy I thank you very much for your help, very much indeed. With your input and the easy to follow test procedures listed on this forum I saved $100.00 on the motor and who knows how much for a service call. Good day to you!
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Rank: Advanced Member
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If your motor bearings failed on your old motor it's a good idea to add a slinger disk to the new motor shaft below the fan blade. If it just blew out, add a 1000 joule surge protector to the outlet.
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Rank: Member
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Where can I purchase a slinger disk or do you have a suggestion how I can make my own.
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Rank: Advanced Member
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Any semi-soft, thick plastic would work about 1 inch diameter: just punch a small hole in the middle and push it on.
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Rank: Member
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Thanks again! I didn't think it would have to be anything hi-tech but I just wanted to make sure.
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