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well - I checked EVERYTHING (except - see bottom) Power = 240 volts INSIDE the harness thermal fuse=closed thermistor = 10.5 ohms (per spec sheet) thermal cutoff =closed heat coil = 10 ohms (per spec) high limit thermostat = closed with all those parts = ok -> replaced the electronic control board STILL NO HEAT :( checked wire diagram - see image  but it looks like the centrifugal needs to be closed for heater element to work? but the drum DOES turn as it should I am guessing the switch is here? (see below) and if so - how to I get to it and check it  and there is no part listed in the tech manual for a centrifugal switch? also of interest 1. I checked the "Fabric Care Temperature Switch" ironically, it fails on the 2 'middle modes' (medium and medium high) but does pass on no heat, low and high? is it possible that this is the culprit? even though I do not get heat on ANY setting 2. no matter what mode I use - I DO get 120/120 THROUGH the heater relay - odd - I would have imagined that it would get ZERO power of I set the mode to fluff (-ie no heat???) I am lost for the next step in testing ??????? :confused:
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Here is the tech sheet http://www.servicematters.com/d...0Sheet%20-%203979705.pdf Looks like you already have this but it makes it easier having it in a post.
I am guessing the switch is here? (see below) and if so - how to I get to it and check it It is built into the motor so you cannot really get at it, you have to check it at the connector. Usually the two larger red wires. You could live check this by shorting the wires together or installing a jumper across the connections. Then plugging it in and giving it a try. Just make sure to tape them up so they cannot short to the frame or get tangled into the motor. and there is no part listed in the tech manual for a centrifugal switch? It is part of the motor and not available separately also of interest
1. I checked the "Fabric Care Temperature Switch"
ironically, it fails on the 2 'middle modes' (medium and medium high)
but does pass on no heat, low and high? is it possible that this is the culprit? even though I do not get heat on ANY setting Possible. Did you check it with all wires removed?
2. no matter what mode I use - I DO get 120/120 THROUGH the heater relay - odd - I would have imagined that it would get ZERO power of I set the mode to fluff (-ie no heat???)
I am not sure what you mean by this? With the unit running you should see 0 volts across the contacts. Note you will also see 0 if the centrifugal switch is open. If you see 240 volts across the contacts the centrifugal is OK and either the contacts are shot or the relay is not closing. I believe that the heater and motor relays are the same have you tried swapping them? |
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thanks for GREAT reply !(looking forward to your next one ;)) my comments embedded below in REDOriginally Posted by: denman  Here is the tech sheet http://www.servicematters.com/d...0Sheet%20-%203979705.pdf Looks like you already have this but it makes it easier having it in a post. yes - using the same tech sheet - thank-you
I am guessing the switch is here? (see below) and if so - how to I get to it and check it It is built into the motor so you cannot really get at it, you have to check it at the connector. where is it? Usually the two larger red wires. You could live check this by shorting the wires together or installing a jumper across the connections. Then plugging it in and giving it a try. Just make sure to tape them up so they cannot short to the frame or get tangled into the motor. where are they? cannot see any of this mechanism from the front?and there is no part listed in the tech manual for a centrifugal switch? It is part of the motor and not available separately also of interest
1. I checked the "Fabric Care Temperature Switch"
ironically, it fails on the 2 'middle modes' (medium and medium high)
but does pass on no heat, low and high? is it possible that this is the culprit? even though I do not get heat on ANY setting Possible. Did you check it with all wires removed? yes(wires removed) - should I try and new switch?
2. no matter what mode I use - I DO get 120/120 THROUGH the heater relay - odd - I would have imagined that it would get ZERO power of I set the mode to fluff (-ie no heat???)
I am not sure what you mean by this? With the unit running you should see 0 volts across the contacts. Note you will also see 0 if the centrifugal switch is open. If you see 240 volts across the contacts the centrifugal is OK and either the contacts are shot or the relay is not closing. I will do a full test of all the conditions now and report back here in an hour?I believe that the heater and motor relays are the same have you tried swapping them? - I did not try this - as the motor does turn - and I thought that if I switched them and then the motor would not turn - then the heater would not work as a matter of safety?
played with the meter and the heater relay
yesterday (at times) I got some readings of 240 - today not - (just 50 across small and big wires)
(with temp knob on different settings) do you know what they should read (volts) under different settings?
the 2 large red wires you said to short out to test the switch are where?
not the 2 by the heater relay?
will try and swap the heater and motor relay now for fun :p
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duh - while swapping the part - thought - hmmmm , if the motor does not work - might prove that the heater relay (now the motor relay) might prove that the heater relay was faulty - :rolleyes: and ta dah - motor only spins when holding in the start button - so guess it is time for new heater relay ! - will report back after new part arrives
question - will it be harmful to hold the start switch in to see if it gets hot? - will not do so unless some one hears says OK to try that
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played with the meter and the heater relay
yesterday (at times) I got some readings of 240 - today not - (just 50 across small and big wires)
(with temp knob on different settings) do you know what they should read (volts) under different settings?
Looks like you have found the bad relay so the above should not matter.
the 2 large red wires you said to short out to test the switch are where?
not the 2 by the heater relay?
No, they are the at the the motor's connector.
will try and swap the heater and motor relay now for fun
duh - while swapping the part - thought - hmmmm , if the motor does not work - might prove that the heater relay (now the motor relay) might prove that the heater relay was faulty - :rolleyes: and ta dah - motor only spins when holding in the start button - so guess it is time for new heater relay ! - will report back after new part arrives
Yes, that was the idea behind swapping them. It is a quick way to check both the coil and the contacts.
question - will it be harmful to hold the start switch in to see if it gets hot? - will not do so unless some one hears says OK to try that
Yes it should not harm any thing to hold the start switch, just do not hold it for too long. Might be a good idea to pull the start relay when you do this just in case it has a bad coil (short between windings in the coil) and is pulling down the relay coil voltage.
This post is "Starting To Look A Lot Like Christmas"
I think I will go and pull out my Xmas CD's
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thanks alot denmam for help
will report back in 2 days after receipt of new parts
(Merry Christmas to you as well ! :D)
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Rank: Member
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:DJust want to report back to ALL here = DRYER NOW WORKS:D
the heater relay was the culprit
and of interest, I bought temperature select switch
(mine failed the debug test)
but it worked when running!
so, I tested the new switch - IT FAILED THE TEST the same way!
so, guess I get to return the switch :rolleyes:
in summary - thanks for help !
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Thanks for getting back to me, glad to hear you are up and running
Have a nice Holiday Season |
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