Hello, today I have encountered some problems with my GE QuietPower 1 dishwasher. The Model # GLD4200L15CC. When the cycle is complete 2-3 inches of water remains in the bottom of the tub. The drain pipe is connected with a raised tube to the drain of the sink. I was told that it might be the solenoid that controls the drain valve. We tried hitting the start/reset button numerous times to get it to drain but it did not drain and the water was removed manually. I removed the plate at the bottom of the dishwasher but cannot find the solenoid looking from that position. Does the whole dishwasher need to be pulled out physically? Do you have any suggestions what might be causing this problem? Solutions? Also does a free illustrated repair guide for my dishwasher exist online for layman. Thank you.

Chris

Chris,

There is no drain solenoids in your dishwasher. You may want to check the drain pump (#325 on the diagram). There is check valve (red flopper) in the outer pump tube which can cause drain stoppage.

The dishwasher has to be removed from the cabinet to access the part.

- The drain pump assembly Part number: AP3872950

The dishwasher has to be removed completely or at least 3/4 of it. I would turn off the power and the water line to the dishwasher and disconnect the water line from the dishwasher water inlet valve. Disconnection of the drain hose is questionable and you can do it later, if needed.

Usually there are two screws on the top of the dishwasher, secured it to the counter top.

Gene.

You are welcome. Keep us posted.

Gene.

Hey guys / gals,

Same issue here, cycle runs in every way correct but always seems to skip the draining step.

SO, I pulled out the whole washer, grabbed my tools and my voltmeter, and followed my nose. BTW, I am in no way saying this is something you should do, and it is very easy to zap yourself when you try to get into the guts of something plugged into your wall...

Anyhoo, the drain pump (no solenoid, and the flow-back check valve was clean) was getting very hot during the part of the cycle that should actually drain the filthy wash water.

I turned the washer's house circuit breaker off. Limits my chance of getting zapped...

I pulled the drain pump.

I disassembled it carefully. NO debris, actually was very clean. NO obstructions to turning the impeller inside.

SO looking at the pump's printed spec's I gave it what it likes: 115-120V AC (common US household power). It worked. Perfectly. In fact, it did not even heat up even after running continuously for an hour.

Re-assembled, plugged back in just as I found it. Ran a cycle.

This time I had my voltmeter clamped to the motor's terminals.

Sure enough, when the drain cycle hits the motor sits there and hummmms...only getting warmer.

I'm no wizard, but when I measure a voltage of 12-36ish volts when this happens (instead of closer to 115V), something tells me the motor controller is WAY OFF!!!

BTW - if you gently 'tap' the side of the motor when it is in this weird hung-up voltage it will run perfectly. I still don't blame the motor.

So, to you that know a lot more than me, would this be the board to replace?: Kit - Main & Tactile Bd ?

Or am I more crazy than normal?

Any input is appreciated.