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Replacement parts for FRIGIDAIRE FRT21NRFW2 Frg(v4) / Refrigerator | AppliancePartsPros.com

1. freezer temp will not drop below 25deg F, refrig temp is 36deg with setting at one notch(''4'') past the ''normal''(l) setting....
2. water is leaking from freezer door at hinge pin/pin grommet and from behind door seal near handle end
This is of concern. I could not find the insulation type for the freezer door but the fresh food door looks like fiberglass. If the freezer door is also fiberglass it looses just about all its insulation value when wet. I would open it up and check it. If it is wet replace it. Also try to determine how the moisture got in there in the first place re: cracked line etc.

3. unit seems to cycle normally but may be running to the point of thermal overload and then resetting after compressor cool down -not sure on this aspect
If the compressor is just warm then I doubt that this is the problem. They normally have to get very hot before the overload kicks out. Check it. You could try pulling the unit out, getting a fan and blowing air over the compressor if it now drops the freezer temp then it is probably the overload that is kicking out. Could be a bad overload, could be a compressor on its last legs.

4. I'm doubting refrigerant leaks as temp drop in freezer was rather sudden(within a day or two)
This is hard to judge because it depends on how low on freon you are. If the evaporator coils just frost up in a certain area (often where the freon enters them) then this is a prime indicator of low freon or a partially plugged orifice in the sealed system. The compressor cycling does seem to indicate that this is not the problem as it would run normally continually if the freon was low. See Item 20 example pictures at the bottom of the page, note the first one does not work.

8. unit obviously not level
This could effect the door seals and allow warm air into the unit. It should be level side to side and is OK if it is leaning slightly towards the back.

Can anyone help?
-is this a defrost thermostat issue?
Does not sound like it. The evap coils must be frosted/iced up to the point where the evaporator fan cannot pull the air through them for it to be a defrost issue.

-does this unit even have a defrost timer? (I don't see one in the system diagrams)
Yes, see Item 23 in Section 4. Usually there is a hole in the cover that will let you rotate the cam (force a defrost cycle)

- should I replace the defrost thermo, starter overload assembly and the capacitor all in one shot ?
I would not as without further diagnosis you do not know if any of these parts are faulty, on top of that I am cheap.

Could be that the door insulation is shot so the compressor cannot get the freezer down to the correct temperature and is overheating and tripping the compressor overload.

Do not know if the unit has a separate control for the fresh food section, if it does turn this to a warmer setting usually this mechanically reduces the amount of cold air entering the fresh food area and will drop the freezer temperature.

Here are a couple good links on fridge troubleshooting/repair
http://www.applianceaid.com/refrigerator.html
Refrigerator Repair Guide: How To Fix a Refrigerator - ACME HOW TO.com