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Whirlpool YGBS277PDQ5 wall-oven
Also started blowing the overtemp fuse. Checked all measurements okay according to the tech-sheet, except the broil element, which was 19 Ohm instead of the 45-55 ohm according to the tech-sheet. What is puzzling to me, is that according to "Ohms law", the 240V/3000W broil element SHOULD have a resistance of about 19. So what's cookin' here (no pun intended)? Is this also a miss-print in the tech-sheet, or is the element really defective? Why does the bake element conform to ohms-law, but not the broil element? I replaced the overtemp fuse again, but not the broil element. The oven worked for several months until last night, when we used the self-cleaning feature(!). Same symptoms as blown overtemp fuse, again.
Thanks,
Will
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Will, It has nothing to do with the Broil heating element. Problems with oven shut-down thermal fuses after self clean is most common problem with all Whirlpool electric ovens for over ten years. It happens because the oven exhaust heat is escaping from the top of the oven door because the door is not sealing properly. The warmer air is being pulled into the blower fan and directed across the thermo-disc, causing it to open. There are two options for you: 1) Do not use the self clean or 2) Install a kit specially designed by Whirlpool to solve this problem. This kit contains the following items: oven door gasket, oven door glass and retainer, oven shut-down thermal fuse, blower assembly and bracket. It comes with the installation instructions. - The blower kit Part number: AP3133595
Gene. P.S. This part number is for 27" single ovens only. There are different part numbers for different ovens.
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Gene,
Thank you very much for your answer, and part# help. I'll start by installing a replacement thermal-fuse, and an agreement w/ my wife not to use the self-cleaning feature. I'm thinking of pulling one of the latch-switch connectors off the front panel board (P3-7), assuming this will disable the self-clean feature.
RE: The broil-element ohm reading: I phoned Whirlpool to ask if there was a miss-print on the tech-sheet, and she wouldn't or couldn't answer the question, since as a customer I shouldn't be looking at the tech-sheet! So just for my own peace of mind, is a missprint?
Thanks,
Will
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Will, Quote:... So just for my own peace of mind, is a missprint?... I do not think so because heat elements for self clean ovens are different, but I do not think you should worry about it unless there is a heating problem when you use Broil. Quote:...I'm thinking of pulling one of the latch-switch connectors off the front panel board (P3-7)... Very likely it would cause an error code and disable the oven. Gene.
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Ok, I'll leave the latch connectors alone....
Thanks very much for your help, Gene!
Will
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Hi Gene
Your answer to Shebish "The part number for the thermal fuse (aka thermistor)" has helped to resolve the same problem I have with my KitchenAid oven. When I called a parts place they didn't have a thermal fuse listed, but had a thermistor. I thought he said 'thermistat' so I was really confused. Now I know what to order.
Many thanks
Gadgets
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Ok, I couldn't help it....once I had the oven out to replace the over-temp device, I figured it was easy to experiment a bit at the same time. This is easily done w/ the oven pulled out just a few inches, and the front panel undone (power disconnected at fuse-box first).
I disconnected the grey wire to the door-lock solenoid, and positioned it out of the way. The oven worked normally. I then selected "self-clean": the oven started w/ all the normal self-clean indications, but after a minute or so realized that something was "wrong". It stopped, and correctly indicated a door-lock error code. Simply hitting the "cancel" button cleared the code, and allowed normal oven operation again. Now, when your mother-in-law is visiting, and she decides to do you a "favour" by cleaning your oven, it won't cost you another $50 to replace the over-temp device!
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Thank you for sharing such nice solution with us. :)
Happy Holidays!
Gene.
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