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The refrigerator just stopped working yesterday. Over the years I installed three adaptive boards in it myself but this time is another issue. Yes, it was making the clicking sound. The overload relay on the side of the compressor is making a noise like it is full of sand and it actually has some fine metal dust coming out. The compressor was hot and not starting. Before I spend $60 on a new relay that can fry also if the compressor is faulty I would like to know if there is a way to test the compressor with a meter, beforehand. If it turns out that it is only the relay that can be done but, I do not want to spend $400 on the compressor relay kit plus a day of my time repairing when I can buy a new similar fridge for $800 on clearance locally. :)
Any help is greatly appreciated
Regards, MAC
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[FONT='Times New Roman'] The compressor has three prongs on the side of it. Test ohms between each one and to ground. There should be continuity (6-12 ohms or so) between each of the prongs and no continuity to ground. If the compressor checks out ok I would replace the relay but note that even if the compressor even if the compressor checks ok ohms wise it can still cause the relay to go bad. I know the price of the relay is outrageous the relay is just a $5 relay in a white box with a $5 overload. But other than the test I just said there is no good way to confirm the compressor is good or not you just have to try the relay 99% of the time it is just the relay. Refrigerator repair guide[/FONT]
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Rank: Member
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I bought and installed a new relay and overload kit. I let it run overnight and it was working fine freezing. The next day I took the parts out again so I can clean the dust that was all over everithing. When I went an put everything back together it did not start up again. It was doing the same as before: Plug it in with the controls on, to about medium, and the compressor will turn on for a brief second and the fan will be on
at the same time for a half turn, then nothing. It will do this as many times as I will plug/unplug the cord.
On a side note, first, I had the control temp lever all the way to OFF. With the refrigerator plugged in and if the lever is moved from OFF to any degree of coldness, nothing will happen. It did this first, right as I installed the new parts, it will not turn on, however when I moved the lever to about middle and then plugged the fridge ON, then it started fine. Could the cold control be also at fault ?
By the way the relay is still OK the round pill that is inside is still intact, whereas on the old one it was turned into crumbs...
Thank You for any input
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Such problem has nothing to do with the cold control. Most likely the compressor has gone bad.
Gene.
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I agree with Gene, as this is an on=going problem. Most likely the compressor cycled on overload so many times and so frequently that IT caused the relay to go bad to begin with...The condenser coil is not dirty and has sufficient airflow, right, because thereis an outside chance that could cause the compressor to kick out on internal overload also.
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Rank: Member
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I just finished installing a new compressor. That includes all: start relay overload and new condenser. When I plug the unit on it does the same exact thing as before: a short hum from the compressor the fan spins one turn and then nothing. Any ideas on what is going on are welcomed. So far it seems that all my waiting, expense and work were for nothing.
Thanks for any input,
Regards, MAC:mad:
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Rank: Member
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you said this fridge had a control board, and it is relatively new, so that pretty much eliminates that problem. also new compressor and new relay.
you say that the condenser fan is not running when the compressor kicks out. I believe the compressor is pulling locked rotor amps for a moment and is kicking out for whatever reason, but that doesn't explain why the fan stops. It should still run unless it is wired in a way that I'm not familiar with. I suggest that you turn the unit on and let it "do what it does" and with the unit still on unplug the relay assy. and check the voltage between the hot and the neutral. need at least 108 min to operate and I would expect to see this value to be up around 120v ac. Still it should not stop the cond. fan. Does the evaporatr fan still run? This has really got my intrest and I would like to help you figure this out. Are you a technician or are you usng what you have learned over time? I think together we can figure this out.
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Rank: Member
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Maytag MSD2957DEW
I just read the last post to my problem and I realized that maybe I should look into the adaptive frost timer board that I replaced for the Fourth time in February of 09. I swapped one of the old one that had the defrost function malfunctioning, and guess what: the refrigerator started right away. I am looking into what kind of warranty is on these M@itag genuine garbage boards as this last one, just cost me unnecessary repairs of about $450 and three weeks without my fridge.
On the plus side the fridge is running somewhat quieter and the thermometer probe in the freezer over the fan has already showing 30F after about 30 minute of running.
The moral to this expensive saga is: if the compressor was not noisy look around at other parts. I had the defrost board revelation after looking at the revision 10 schematic and noticing one wire going to the fan and the relay, also the above post mentioning the board as an issue but dismissing it because it was relatively new.
I am wondering what can I do with the old compressor...
Cheers, MAC
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Rank: Member
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save the old compressor. if you have another ref. go down and the Lra is about the same on the two compressors, by all means use it. for future refrence,, the correct way to check a compressor with an ohm meter and see if it is good is as follows: in your mind give each terminal on the compressor a number...1,2, and 3...take a continuity reading from each terminal to the housing of the compressor. if you get a beep or a reading, then the compressor is shorted to ground and is no good. if you get no reading, then continue on. now take an ohm reading form each terminal to the others and record the readings. a good compressor will read something like this, but does not have to be exactly the same. 1-2 2.3ohm...1-3 4.5 ohms...2-3 6.8 ohms. notice that if you add 1-2 and 1-3 resistances together you will get roughly the same as 2-3 resistance. from these readings you know that 1 is your common(because the res. is highest at 2-3) 2 is your run terminal (because res. is lowest from the common to #2 terminal) and 3 is your start terminal (highest res.FROM COMMON). if these #'s are close then the windings are good, but that doesnt mean that the internal overload and the bearings are good. If you had done this first....
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