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The ice maker in my kenmore elite (whirlpool) s/s fridge/freezer quit working last week. So, after reading several posts and calling sears - yikes! $70 just to come out! I decided to gamble and just buy a replacement icemaker - 2198597. When I took the old one out I noticed the large plastic gear on the motor was off kilter and upon further inspection could see that it had actually broken at the shaft and therefore was not engaging with the small brass gear. However, 24 hours after installation of the new ice maker...no ice, no nothing. And yes, before all this, I used the hair dryer to verify no frozen line, made sure the temp was 0-5 degrees, the red optic light was not obscured, the water filter is good, water supply is good (water dispenser in door has always worked). If I have a bad water supply valve/solenoid would it have contributed to the breakage of the old ice maker in some way? ...or am I just looking at coincidental breakages? ...or is it something else I am missing entirely? Any help greatly appreciated.
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Quote:...the red optic light was not obscured... Make sure the "on-off" switch on the right side is "on". Push in the flopper on the left side and watch the optic LED. Would it stay "on" or it would blinking? Gene.
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Please click one of the Quick Reply icons in the posts above to activate Quick Reply.
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Yes, the switch is on and the red light is steady when the flapper is shut and the beam is unobstructed.
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Unplug the ice maker harness plug and check for 120VAC between the black and white wires at the plug. Post the results.
Gene.
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Originally Posted by: Gene  Unplug the ice maker harness plug and check for 120VAC between the black and white wires at the plug. Post the results.
Gene. Thank you Gene, Using a digital multimeter checking between the black and white wires I got a reading of 34.9. Marshal
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Marshal,
Sounds like the problem is a bad optic boards. If you need the correct part number then post the complete model number of the refrigerator.
Gene.
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Originally Posted by: Gene Unplug the ice maker harness plug and check for 120VAC between the black and white wires at the plug. Post the results.
Gene. Just so I understand....the optic board can be bad even though the sensor light is okay? Marshal
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The optic part of the boards can be fine, but there are a few more parts in the boards between the optic receiver and the power supply for the ice maker. If there is 120 VAC coming to the boards as shown in the attached file then the boards have to be replaced. Gene.
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Rank: Member
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Originally Posted by: Gene The optic part of the boards can be fine, but there are a few more parts in the boards between the optic receiver and the power supply for the ice maker. If there is 120 VAC coming to the boards as shown in the attached file then the boards have to be replaced.
Gene. Okay, looking at the schematic just reaffirms why I don't do this for a living!! I'll just take your word for it that the board or boards are bad. It's a model 106.44323400. Thanks. Marshal
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