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I have replaced the defrost timer, and than put a meter on the connections to the defrost coil, the voltage was 3.44 and slowly went up to 107 volts, but when it was hooked up it did not defrost the coil, is there another problem?
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Joined: 2/29/2008(UTC) Posts: 19,638
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I have replaced the defrost timer, and than put a meter on the connections to the defrost coil, the voltage was 3.44 and slowly went up to 107 volts, but when it was hooked up it did not defrost the coil, is there another problem? Not sure where your meter leads were but is sounds like you were reading a ghost voltage.
If you put the meter across the defrost contacts you should see 120 volts. When the contacts close in defrost mode you should see 0 volts. If there is not 120 then the defrost thermostat or heater is open or you have a broken wire.
Best way to check is: Remove the covers from the evaporator coils. Manually turn the defrost heater cam till the fans and compressor go off, you are now in a defrost cycle. Check to see if the defrost heater heats. Be careful you do not want to burn your fingers. If it heats the defrost timer is toast. If it does not heat, it could still be the timer (re: it's contacts are shot) but more likely one of the following.
Unplug the unit and check the: Defrost element should be approximately 20 ohms. Defrost thermostat should be 0 ohms when frozen. Note it will open just above freezing. Sometimes you can actually see that it is bulged out and needs replacing.
Be sure to disconnect one side of any device you are measuring for resistance. This ensures that you do not read an alternate/parallel circuit path. |
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