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Dryer Stops in Mid Cycle - No Light When Door Open
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Model: HYE3460AYW Brand: Maytag Age: 5 - 10 years
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jerryd_2008  
#1 Posted : Monday, October 26, 2009 8:42:40 AM(UTC)
jerryd_2008

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From other posts, I think I need to test the thermal fuse and the door switch. I can't find the fuse from diagrams I have found. I am trying to locate the physical placement of the thermal fuse on the dryer. Also, not being too handy, I need to know what it looks like.:confused:

Thank you.

PS: Already checked circuit breaker and plug.
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Frank / APP Team  
#2 Posted : Monday, October 26, 2009 10:17:27 AM(UTC)
Frank / APP Team

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Originally Posted by: jerryd_2008 Go to Quoted Post
From other posts, I think I need to test the thermal fuse and the door switch. I can't find the fuse from diagrams I have found. I am trying to locate the physical placement of the thermal fuse on the dryer. Also, not being too handy, I need to know what it looks like.:confused:

Thank you.

PS: Already checked circuit breaker and plug.



Below is a picture of the thermal fuse kit. It is located on the heating element.

Part number: AP4242472
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jerryd_2008  
#3 Posted : Monday, October 26, 2009 10:49:32 AM(UTC)
jerryd_2008

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Frank, thank you. That was very helpful.

That's the good news. The bad news is that both the thermal fuse and the door switch both tested properly for continuity per instructions found on other web sites.

Would anybody have any other suggestions on what to look at next?:confused:

PS: Remember - PICTURES for the klutz!:o
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jerryd_2008  
#4 Posted : Monday, October 26, 2009 11:12:52 AM(UTC)
jerryd_2008

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The handy-dandy Reader's Digest Fix It book recommends testing the cord. When I shorted the plug wire leads in the dryer and tested the resistance across the two FLAT plug terminals, it read zero. Cord looks good.

Added info: when dryer plugged in and turning timer dial the dryer dings so it looks like there is some power in the dryer but NOT the door, drum or drying components.

Would anybody have any other suggestions on what to look at next?UserPostedImage
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Frank / APP Team  
#5 Posted : Monday, October 26, 2009 11:31:23 AM(UTC)
Frank / APP Team

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Originally Posted by: jerryd_2008 Go to Quoted Post
The handy-dandy Reader's Digest Fix It book recommends testing the cord. When I shorted the plug wire leads in the dryer and tested the resistance across the two FLAT plug terminals, it read zero. Cord looks good.

Added info: when dryer plugged in and turning timer dial the dryer dings so it looks like there is some power in the dryer but NOT the door, drum or drying components.

Would anybody have any other suggestions on what to look at next?UserPostedImage



Did you check the door switch? Common to normally open is for the run circuit, common to normally closed is the light? So with the switch pressed in C to NO should show continuity.

Have you looked at the termial block on the back of the dryer where the cord attaches? You need to make sure you read 120v from each of the outer posts to the neutral (center post), and 240v from outer to outer.

From there you'll need to check out the timer.
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jerryd_2008  
#6 Posted : Monday, October 26, 2009 3:17:57 PM(UTC)
jerryd_2008

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Thanks, Frank.

Originally Posted by: Frank / APP Team Go to Quoted Post
Did you check the door switch? Common to normally open is for the run circuit, common to normally closed is the light? So with the switch pressed in C to NO should show continuity.


Followed this test of the switch successfully.[LIST=1]
  • Touch one probe to one terminal and the other probe to the other terminal. The tester should display a reading of infinity.
  • Keeping the probes touching the terminals, push in the switch. With the switch pushed in, your tester should display a reading of zero. Release the switch and it should return to infinity. If you do not get these readings or the tester reads infinity or zero at all times, then you will have to replace the door switch.[/LIST]
    Originally Posted by: Frank / APP Team Go to Quoted Post
    Have you looked at the termial block on the back of the dryer where the cord attaches? You need to make sure you read 120v from each of the outer posts to the neutral (center post), and 240v from outer to outer.


    Yes, but only tested plug wire to terminal block.

    Very difficult to reach both outer posts. So, WITHOUT power on I had wife do resistance readings while I put an alligator clip attached to wire and 2nd alligator clip on one outer post and put other alligator clip on screw driver and just got to other outer post. Showed zero resistance or continuity. To me this proved the plug is good. I don't really want to try to get to those posts with 220 flowing.

    IF THIS IS WALL OUTLET: / c \

    Can I just put probes into / c and then c \ and check for 110 on each?:confused:

    Originally Posted by: Frank / APP Team Go to Quoted Post
    From there you'll need to check out the timer.


    The wife said that she heard the timer ticking with power on dryer. Can the timer still be bad if this happens?:confused:

    PS: The timer looks EXPENSIVE from a parts supply!
    		•
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    jerryd_2008  
    #7 Posted : Tuesday, October 27, 2009 10:08:46 AM(UTC)
    jerryd_2008

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    Checked each leg and across both flat leads with plug partially in. Got 110, 110 and 220, respectively. So power seems good.

    When retesting the door switch, I realized that there are 2 terminals on one side of the switch, one is white like the other side and one is pink with a plastic cover (to isolate it from white lead - and me?). Now the resistance test results with one lead disconnected and no power to dryer are:

    Switch Off:
    white to white - infinity
    white to pink - zero!

    Switch On:
    white to white - zero
    white to pink - zero

    The dryer light still is non-operational when dryer is plugged in. Don't know what the pink lead feeds, but it is shorted in both tests. Does this sound like a bad switch?UserPostedImage

    PS: Anybody know what the pink lead feeds?
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    jerryd_2008  
    #8 Posted : Thursday, October 29, 2009 3:00:34 PM(UTC)
    jerryd_2008

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    Originally Posted by: Frank / APP Team Go to Quoted Post
    Below is a picture of the thermal fuse kit. It is located on the heating element.

    Part number: AP4242472


    It was the thermal fuse but I homed in on the large 53-0771 High limit thermostat because it was visible and I did not understand the advise well. The tech actually had a kit that replaces both the thermal fuse and the limit thermostat (note the there is a limit thermostat for both electric and NG - much smaller than electric - which explains the 3 parts in the kit). Wish I had enlarged and read the instructions that come up when one clicks on the picture closer. Very helpful if I would have.

    That was an expensive OOPS!:(

    Thanks for the help, Guys, especially Frank.
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