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Joined: 9/30/2009(UTC) Posts: 2
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My freezer stopped making ice one day and then kept making this horrible rattling sound. When I checked it out, I realized everything in my freezer was frozen solid in thin layers of ice over each item and the bottom of the freezer had a thick layer of ice. There were icicles hanging from the shelves and the back wall also had a thick layer of ice. I opened the back panel and found the coils covered in a thick layer of ice. The rattling was the fan which was also covered in ice and trying it's best to continue to perform. I defrosted everything and cleared the drain hole (as suggested all over the internet). 2 weeks later, it happened again. So, I have since replaced the defrost thermostat (also suggested online) - it was the cheaper route to immediatey replacing the defrost heater. Still freezing over. Now, I'm planning to replace the heater. I noticed recently that the "freeze over" begins on the right side of the coils and then moves left. I'm curious whether I'm doing the right steps or whether the pattern in which it is freezing is indicative of another unrelated problem. My biggest fear being that I am making all of these replacements when it is something much simpler and unrelated to the thermostat and heater altogether.
This freezer problem is a monkey on my back!!!!
Can anyone help me?
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Rank: Advanced Member
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Joined: 2/29/2008(UTC) Posts: 19,638
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A Model Number may help others help you.
You have 3 components in the defrost system. The defrost thermostat which you have replaced. The defrost heater which should be checked with a meter to see if it is blown The defrost timer which can be checked in a number of ways depending on the type. If the thermostat and heater is OK then the problem is usually the timer. |
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!! |
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 9/30/2009(UTC) Posts: 2
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Sorry. It is a Frigidaire Side by Side Gallery Series GLHS36EEB1. I have replaced the thermostat because it was only $16 dollars and it is still freezing over. I know where and how to replace the defrost heater but I know nothing about testing any of these components to see which is failing. Anyone, please help!!! I'm ready to put this thing curbside and I REFUSE to pay someone else to fix what I KNOW I can do myself.
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 2/29/2008(UTC) Posts: 19,638
Thanks: 1 times Was thanked: 11 time(s) in 11 post(s)
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Remove the evaporator coil cover. Unhook the defrost thermostat, should be 0 ohms when it is frozen. Note it opens (infinite ohms) just above freezing. Unhook the heater and measure it should have continuity. Here is a couple sites with additional help Refrigerator Repair Guide: How To Fix a Refrigerator - ACME HOW TO.com http://www.applianceaid.com/refrigerator.htmlIf you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long. If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool. Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it. A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity 1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter. 2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path. 3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range. There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use. |
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!! |
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