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My Kenmore (made by Whirlpool) direct drive washing machine was leaking from pump so I replaced pump. That fix is fine although there are 2 additional problems. 1. To avoid disassembling the case, I disconnected hoses at rear of washer and placed washer on its back on top of 4 wood blocks to gain easy access to pump. Access is easy. However, oil drained out of the transmission / gear case. I would like to refill the gear case oil. No instructions though. WHERE DO I REFILL GEAR CASE OIL? I assume the level is low since some did spill out during repair. 2. The old water pump was completely rusted to the motor shaft so what should be a simple removal job was more involved. First I stupidly tried levering pump off the motor shaft which caused some deformation of the front motor bearing/seal. It is slightly noisy but still works - at least for now. I decided to run it as is and see how long it works. Might be years. Or I can replace the motor. A bit of advice for others doing this job though. If the pump is frozen (rusted) to the motor shaft - which is very likely if the pump has been leaking around the pump bearing seal since older style pumps have an iron impeller which will rust onto the motor shaft: - DO NOT TRY TO LEVER PUMP OFF SHAFT - instead: - remove the motor with the pump still attached. Then force pump off the shaft by placing screwdriver on pump housing and hitting with hammer. Move screwdriver to locations opposite each other to force it fairly straight. This will probably destroy the plastic housing on the old pump (doesn't matter) and it MAY harm motor bearings but there's a good chance you'll get the pump off the shaft with the motor still OK. Worth a try anyway since you'll have to replace pump AND motor if you can't get the pump off and there's no simple way to press the pump off the shaft. - once the pump is removed from the shaft, clean the shaft up with a flat file. remove all rust and corrosion from the shaft, lightly grease it and the new pump will slide on easily. (note: new pump from APP has plastic impeller which is much less likely to rust onto shaft.) good instructions for working on Whirlpool direct drive washers available at RepairAve.com - Free appliance repair help and troubleshootingDave
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Hi Dave, In order to refill gear case oil the gear case has to be removed from the machine. You have to remove the cover from the gear case. Be careful not to break the seal. - The part number for the gear case oil is AP3072960 Gene.
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Rank: Member
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Thanks Gene.
Wondering if instead of disassembling the gear case it would be possible to lever off the old oil seals, dump some oil in and replace the oil seals with new ones?
That seems easier and it also occurred to me that the oil should NOT have leaked out unless the oil seals were bad. (If not the unit should have been pretty well sealed, right? - unless the case were cracked or the gasket between the 2 halves was leaking - neither seems to be the pronlem though)
For now I'm assuming there's still enough oil in the gear case since its not noisy. Realize that's always a dangerous assumption though.
Any advice about e replacing the oil seals and refilling oil at the same time???
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 11/27/2008(UTC)
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It is pretty easy to add the oil with the transmission out. Any leak should be repaired first, but likely you are reading this because you tipped the washer on its side for a lengthy period of time and the oil leaked out through the vent hole. Here's how to fill it. Remove the transmission first. This requires taking the tub out, and removing the bolts which hold the transmission and motor to the underside of the washer. The transmission slides out through the bottom. You must tip the machine on its side or back to get the long shaft out. Separate the pump,wires and motor from the transmission before sliding it out. The are in with clips which are easy to remove and install. When you get the transmission out, hold it so the shaft is pointing upwards. wipe away any oil which has leaked out through the pin-hole on the top of the case. Sit the transmission on a bench or the ground with something under it to support it so that it sits as straight up as possible. Check the fluid level using a small paperclip. The iol should be no higher than the seam of the case and the lower cast iron section. if you increase the level it will just leak out. Get an all or a large nail and a hammer. Locate the pin-hole (vent) on the top of the case. Put the point of the nail in the hole, and strike it a couple of times with the hammer so as to enlarge the hole and dimple it downwards a little. Get a syringe such as the ones used to refill printer cartridges. The needle fitting is not useful in this next step because it is too small for the gear oil to be squeezed through. Fill the syringe about 3/4 with 80 or 90 weight gear oil commonly used in car rear-ends and manual transmissions (Walmart or Autozone). Position the plastic tip of the syringe into the small dimple you made earlier and push/squeeze the fluid into the hole. Some will leak around the sides, that's okay. Do this until the level is correct. As a finishing touch, I used a rubber plug that came with my computer ink re-filler to plug the hole. It doesn't really plug it as it fits loose, but enough to keep the oil from spilling out during reassembly. You could use a piece of duck tape and pull it off after, or prick a small hole in it for venting. I figured this out as I was replacing a clutch on my Kenmore model 110.229.22101. It should be the same for any washer with a vent hole on the tranny. This saved me from having to remove the top cover which would have ruined the gasket. It is also a neat way of doing it because it avoids the open tranny which could spill.
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Rank: Advanced Member
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I have removed a bunch of rusted on pumps and find the best way is spray the motor shaft with WD-40 and carefully pound off the pump, works every time!Just hold the motor and pound away. If a vise is available, probably would help. I tried pounding apart the pump, but they hold up pretty good and is just too much work that way. With the pumps pretty durable, they survive the pounding and the impact drives the pump coupler off the motor shaft. Also, this protects the motor end bell.
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Rank: Advanced Member
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Rank: Advanced Member
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Joined: 9/10/2007(UTC)
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V2K04 That's real bad advice. The upper nylon gear and pinion depend on oil to prevent overheating. Tranny's get a lot of stress in worst case situations. In any event you provide no evidence this will work without a bunch of oil drained out.
I have taken a lot of tranny's apart and see evidence of heat damage.
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Rank: Advanced Member
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Rank: Advanced Member
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 9/10/2007(UTC)
Posts: 9,586
Was thanked: 2 time(s) in 2 post(s)
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