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I have yet to recieve a response to my post. I purchased 2 #12002125 dual infinite switch kits from Appliance parts pros. These switch kits come with installation instructions that do not match what I see on my current switches please see my previous posts about this. Do I have the right new switch or do I need to return them? I can't install them without clarification as to the proper way to connect them. Again please see previous post for detail about what I have.
Thank you
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Originally Posted by: ptcgarner  I have yet to recieve a response to my post. I purchased 2 #12002125 dual infinite switch kits from Appliance parts pros. These switch kits come with installation instructions that do not match what I see on my current switches please see my previous posts about this. Do I have the right new switch or do I need to return them? I can't install them without clarification as to the proper way to connect them. Again please see previous post for detail about what I have.
Thank you According to the manufacturers parts breakdown that is the correct substitution number. I found one previous post but I don't see any detail of the problem, can you describe again. Better yet, can you scan and attach the instructions that came with it so I can take a look at them and maybe assist.
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I bought a new switch kit 12002125 and it came with instructions. These are confusing because of not matching what I see. The old switch has terminals with wires on them clockwise from top N Red wires common to all switches, 4 orange into plug, 3 tan into plug traced to inside element, 2 black common to all switches, 5 black traced to indicator light. Could you please help me? The number for the instruction sheet I'm using is 16023363. The switches I have the terminals are clockwise from top P1,2,P2,S1,S2,4, and 4a lower middle. I don't want to short out the switches or anything else. Don't know where else to turn I can't afford a pro right now. Just need to know how my old switch translates to my new switch.
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Originally Posted by: ptcgarner I bought a new switch kit 12002125 and it came with instructions. These are confusing because of not matching what I see. The old switch has terminals with wires on them clockwise from top N Red wires common to all switches, 4 orange into plug, 3 tan into plug traced to inside element, 2 black common to all switches, 5 black traced to indicator light. Could you please help me? The number for the instruction sheet I'm using is 16023363. The switches I have the terminals are clockwise from top P1,2,P2,S1,S2,4, and 4a lower middle. I don't want to short out the switches or anything else. Don't know where else to turn I can't afford a pro right now. Just need to know how my old switch translates to my new switch. Understand your frustration, this is going to be difficult. From what I read on the instruction sheet vs. the wiring diagram, you're going to need to see which one of the first two * applies to the wiring on your range. How many red wires do you have on the old switch and where they are going is going to determine which * to use. On the wiring diagram for your model, it appears there should be 3 red wires on the existing switch. If that is the case then the first * would come into play. The pilot light wire, tan wire and orange wire aren't going to be an issue.
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The red wire is attached at the N terminal on the old switch and it is daisy chained to all the other control switches I believe this may be power to all switches
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The important thing to check is misswiring L1 and L2 wires. If you do, you will blow out the switches when you turn them on.
I use an ohmeter to check for a direct short across the power wires going to the stove. Just turn on all switches and test with a meter with the stove unplugged.
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Originally Posted by: ptcgarner The red wire is attached at the N terminal on the old switch and it is daisy chained to all the other control switches I believe this may be power to all switches Your right the reds are a hot source that jump. So there are only two of them on the switch in question? The wiring diagram for your model shows three. According to the instruction sheet, the second * bullet point comes into play. You'll need to track which wire goes to the points it describes. The double black will go to the P1 terminal, the one for the indicator will go to the S2, the tan and the orange will go to the 4a and the 4. The jumper will go from S1 up to the other P1. This is tough to describe via a keyboard. If I was there and seeing the routing it would be a different story. Obviously by the instructions, this switch is used for different applications and I don't know which one you have.
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Originally Posted by: richappy The important thing to check is misswiring L1 and L2 wires. If you do, you will blow out the switches when you turn them on.
I use an ohmeter to check for a direct short across the power wires going to the stove. Just turn on all switches and test with a meter with the stove unplugged. Would you mind taking a look at the below link, and compare off the wiring diagram to make sure I'm not missing something. The instrucs are a bit confusing. http://servicematters.co...ibrary/docs/16023363.pdf
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I got same switch http://servicematters.co...ibrary/docs/16023363.pdfand my L2 red piggbacks to all other switches... so if I do what instructions say (second*) and hook L2 into p2 then what does go on position 2 of new switch... I can't hook piggybacks to other element switches- they need direct L2. In old drwg for stovetop L2 hooks to N lead which first thing it sees is resistance element of switch
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