Rank: Member
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Joined: 9/2/2009(UTC) Posts: 5
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My tub seal was leaking and it took out the triple lip seal bearing. I ordered replacement parts and the new seal/bearing manual mentions that it should only be used with the high torque transmission, which I don't have. The old setup had a metal "nut" and a plastic nut, but the new one has just the metal piece; the plastic nut has been replaced by a redesigned metal nut. Why can't I use the new parts on the old transmission? Will it hurt to do so? The high torque transmission was an upgrade to my model.
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 3/29/2009(UTC) Posts: 11,699
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I don't know why this is the case but Maytag is pretty adamant about not using the new design unless there is a high torque transmission. Here is the tech bulletin on the change. http://www.servicematters.com/m...rary/docs/TDL-0086-B.pdfI have not been able to see the older part for the non high torque transmission. I would go back to the place you purchased the seal kit from and explain what you need and see if they can determine what seal kit will work with your machine. The should exchange the part you purchased for the right part. Good luck, let us know what happens.
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 9/2/2009(UTC) Posts: 5
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I actually purchased the parts from this website. I called the sales people and she discussed it with people that should know and they said the original parts were discontinued. The only difference that I can see is that before there was a metal piece that screwed onto the transmission shaft and then a plastic nut on the outside of that with a rubber seal. Now the metal piece has the rubber seal and it looks like the plastic nut is no longer needed (even though I ordered one). What I can't figure out is how a low torque transmission would tear up something made for a high torque transmission. The only other option I know of is to replace the entire transmission which is cost prohibitive ($250). I'm going to give these parts a try and hopefully it lasts. If not I'll post again.
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 3/29/2009(UTC) Posts: 11,699
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Ok, good. I was afraid that the old part was not available. Maytag probably designed this process so that the tech would have to replace the transmission and the new seal assembly, doesn't cost them anything and they make a few bucks on the deal.
Good luck, let us know how it turns out.
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 9/2/2009(UTC) Posts: 5
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So I tried putting everything back together using the new parts and the new seal nut's threads are different than the old threads. Luckily I had also purchased the plastic nut and I was able to use the old metal seal nut. None of this affected the bearing which was the major issue. I unfortunately disassembled the brake mechanism when I was tearing the washing machine down, only to find out that it was an unnecessary step and also seems to be posing some significant issues trying to get it back together because of the spring inside the brake. Anyone have any suggestions?
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 3/29/2009(UTC) Posts: 11,699
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 9/2/2009(UTC) Posts: 5
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The problem I had with my washer was that the tub was leaking and had damaged the bearing in the tub seal. The washer has an inner and outer tub, of course. The outer tub bolted to a round plastic seal that contained a bearing in the middle. The inner tub was bolted to a metal piece that was mostly square and about 1 1/2" thick and maybe 4" across. That piece was threaded in the center and screwed onto the transmission shaft. The gasket that was originally between the inner tub and the metal seal/nut was improperly positioned and more than likely is what caused the original leak. After the metal seal/nut, originally was a plastic nut with a rubber seal. The new part combined the metal seal/nut and the plastic nut into one piece, however the thread pattern was different and therefore would not screw onto the shaft of the old low-torque transmission. I assume this was the only difference and why they cautioned you not to use it on the old transmission. Luckily I had purchased a new nut as removing the original was difficult and it was damaged in the process. As for reinstalling the brake, I first made sure I sanded all the metal in the brake assembly b/c there was a bit of light rust due to the water leak. I then sprayed with brake parts cleaner. I reassembled the brake assembly by using 2" 10 24 screws. The screws in the machine were 1/2" 10 24. The longer screws allowed me to compress the spring enough so that the shorter screws could be inserted. There are 6 screws in all. I installed 4 long ones and slowly tighted each of them about 1-2 full turns in order until I could install 2 shorter screws. Once the shorter screws were in, I then replaced the longer ones and continued my 1-2 turn process until they were all tight. Reinstalling the drive pully was interesting as the snap ring groove wasn't visable despite the brake assembly being tight. I ended up trying to tighten the brake assembly just a little more and grinding a tiny bit on the last washer before the snap ring in order to get it started. Since then we are about a dozen loads of clothes later and it is working like a champ.
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 3/29/2009(UTC) Posts: 11,699
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Nice going, and pretty interesting about the new/old bearing kit.
Thanks for the detailed description, I am sure all of us will benefit from it and thanks for the update.
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 9/2/2009(UTC) Posts: 5
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I know that I'm not calling these items by their true names, but hopefully if someone is working on a similar machine, it will make sense.
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 9/16/2009(UTC) Posts: 3
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I have a Maytag model# MAV5000AWW with the same leaking problem. I have ordered the same part with the same comment about high torque transmissions. I have tried my new type spin hub and the threads on the tranny are the same. I am going to try the assembly with the new parts and see what happens.
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