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david / rockford  
#51 Posted : Monday, July 6, 2009 7:18:01 PM(UTC)
david / rockford

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Thank you, I appreciate your time to post. Very helpful

Many happy returns. :)
patzds  
#52 Posted : Tuesday, July 21, 2009 1:20:52 PM(UTC)
patzds

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Thank you so much for posting the manual. That is a great help. Appreciate it!

Dan
klynchmerlin  
#53 Posted : Friday, August 21, 2009 11:17:51 AM(UTC)
klynchmerlin

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Originally Posted by: harold g Go to Quoted Post
Stumbled across this manual online.
May be helpful for others.

Regards,


Harold
:)


Nice! Anyone out there have one for a GE Triton XL? (GSD6300)
Cryogen  
#54 Posted : Wednesday, August 26, 2009 12:28:59 PM(UTC)
Cryogen

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I just spent three days with Bosch trying to get information about why the controller board on my SHU5312UC/06 has failed for the second time in the past 8 years? What an absolute waste of my time trying to get information from them.

I was lucky enough to complain loudly enough about the shoddy replacement board I had already had installed in the unit (while still under warantee) so I got 50% off the price of the new board (still ended up costing me over $90)

The board I am replacing already had the "upgraded" (yeah right) 10A power modules on it. Guess they still burn out fast as this board is only 4 years old.

When I got the replacement board from Bosch Service it did not have the little plastic jumper shunt thingy that was installed on the far right of my old board.

Bosch absolutely refused to help me answer the question of whether I should move this part to the new board, or i I should leave it off. All they wanted to do was send out a service technician. Thank goodness I came across this Web site where the "troubleshooting guide" specifically tells you to move the shunt from the old board to the new one. THANKS!

Bosch is simply a horrible company to work with, and despite their vaunted name, I will never buy another Bosch product again.

Thank you so much for this wonderful appliance help Web site. I wish I had found you earlier so I could have purchased my parts from you.
martin_co  
#55 Posted : Thursday, August 27, 2009 5:02:18 AM(UTC)
martin_co

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Thanks Harold,
I'm a complete repair newbie. I hope I can get to the control module of my SHU6806. I think this manual will be a great help.
Martin
pmaldrum  
#56 Posted : Thursday, September 24, 2009 7:59:55 AM(UTC)
pmaldrum

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Thank You Harold
Will put this to good use...
looknow12  
#57 Posted : Friday, September 25, 2009 3:06:46 PM(UTC)
looknow12

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I have the same issue. Open up the dishwasher after the cycle is complete and the lid is closed and detergent is still inside.

Functionally it seems to work fine and the spring seems strong. Also about 4 years old.

Would this troubleshooting manual work for this unit?
jgish@computer.org  
#58 Posted : Sunday, September 27, 2009 2:16:08 PM(UTC)
jgish@computer.org

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Originally Posted by: harold g Go to Quoted Post
Stumbled across this manual online.
May be helpful for others.

Regards,


Harold

Do you happen to have the troubleshooting manual that will cover the Bosch SHV99A13UC dishwasher? Thanks.
UPAQUET  
#59 Posted : Wednesday, October 7, 2009 5:17:07 PM(UTC)
UPAQUET

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Originally Posted by: harold g Go to Quoted Post
Stumbled across this manual online.
May be helpful for others.

Regards,


Harold



Many tanks, this is very helpful!

Ulric
sbk101  
#60 Posted : Monday, November 2, 2009 1:24:20 PM(UTC)
sbk101

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I was surprised to find the solder repair for the circuit board on the Bosch repair manual PDF file. Seems kind of McGyver to be in their official manual. This was back in 1999 according to the PDF file. Now you would think that Bosch got their act together, learned from that design flaw and made the newer models better. Not so! My SHX46UC02 started to act up, cycles completing at first, but the sanitize light not lit like usual. Then the cycles started lasting 4 hours plus- but it drained fine with Cancel/Drain sequence. Took it apart and found the burnt out solder connection. My unit is 3 years old, built the end of 2006 according to Bosch. I soldered the connection and DW is running like it should- sanitize light is on again at end of cycle. I dont know how long it will last. I would really like to know- what makes the connection burn to begin with? Seems like there is an underlying problem that is not being addressed back from 1999!
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