Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 1/11/2008(UTC)
Posts: 5
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Hello,
I have a Whirlpool Electric Dryer, model # LE5720XSWO. It has a problem with maintaining heat. The heating element goes on for about 90 seconds, then automatically shuts off, and usually does not go back on. I'm thinking one of my thermostats needs replacing, but they check out fine with an ohm meter. Can you help?
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 12/14/2007(UTC)
Posts: 72
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How is your venting?..is it clogged..is vent tube collapsed..your problem sounds like your hi-limit stat is shutting down..try and run the dryer w/out the vent connected..a sure fire test is to clean your filter, disconnect the vent..throw in a load of wet towels and observe the heating element..it should not go out for quite some time if the dryer is o.k. If this passes the test, re-connect the vent and observe again..if the element shuts off within say 5 min or so, your vent is restricted..:) wrench
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 1/11/2008(UTC)
Posts: 5
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Thanks for the reply. I did run the dryer with the vent disconnected, though with no clothes in it; same thing happened. I also checked for air flow at the vent exit, and it seemed to be working fine.
The high limit stat makes a noise when I shake it, like there is something loose inside. Is this an indication of a problem?
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 12/14/2007(UTC)
Posts: 72
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Yes the T'stat is bad if it's rattling.If you don't know the part # on it, you can try looking at the flange and see if the rating is stamped into it. On Whirlpool, it's either a L290 or L250. (this is the cut-out temp + or - 40 deg.)
These do go bad for no real apparent reason.:) wrench
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 1/11/2008(UTC)
Posts: 5
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Thanks very much. I've ordered the part. If this doesn't cure the problem, I'll be back.
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 1/11/2008(UTC)
Posts: 5
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I have replaced the high limit thermostat, which improved the heat in the dryer, but only marginally. The clothes are still damp after a full cycle at high heat. Can you suggest some other causes to the problem? There is another stat at the top of the tube that holds the heating element. Should that be replaced also?
Many thanks.
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 12/14/2007(UTC)
Posts: 72
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I think the top thermostat is a thermal fuse. I's OK if the dryer is running and heating. All you need now for the dryer is HEAT and AIRFLOW. You say you have heat, so now you need airflow. Check the rear drum seal on the drum to see if it's worn out. This design dryer is a "PULLER" which means it pulls air from any available opening. If your seals are worn out, it takes the air from here and blows it out the exhaust, not your clothes. Also be sure of the basics. Is there actually 220v at the terminal block? I've seen 2 120 v lines run and you still only have 120 circuits.(not 220) This problem would be at the breaker box.:eek: good luck..wrench
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 1/11/2008(UTC)
Posts: 5
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Thanks again for the response, but I may have misstated what's happening. The heating element still goes on and off intermittently; it just isn't on enough to dry the clothes. I will check the drum seal, to be sure, but is there another electrical problem that might be causing this?
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