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I hope someone can help. I just bought a house with an existing Kitchenaid Electric Range (KESC308LSSO). Everything was working fine but we noticed the Oven Lights were not turning on. I turned off the power, removed the broken bulbs and replaced them with appliance bulbs of the same wattage. Put the covers back on and then went to the garage to flip the power back on to the range. I got back to the kitchen just in time to see the light bulb flicker a couple of times, then 'pop'. It didn't explode, but the filament broke. Then I noticed the entire LED display was dark. No clock, and no way to operate the oven. The stove top was/is working and all the burners will heat up and the red lights on the stove top are working. Any ideas on what to do? I read that it could be the Electronic Control Assembly so I took that part out. Once I did that, I noticed small burn marks on both the time and oven displays. Do I need another Electronic Control Assembly or could there be another cause? If I do replace it, how can I make sure that changing the oven light bulbs won't short everything out again? Any help you can offer would be great -- and your site is very, very useful!!!
Thanks!
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The electronic control could fail due to a shorted cavity light socket. The correction is to replace the control board and the light socket. - The light socket assembly Part number: AP3029430
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Rank: Member
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thanks gene. ok, so I ordered (and replaced) the control board before I saw the response from you. guess I was too impatient. still no luck. I had a tech come out and look things over. He only suggested the control board needed replacement. However, he did find what appeared to be a broken end 'tip' of a light bulb in the socket that I saw blow out, which was probably left after removing the broken bulb. testing the door switch, fan, thermostat, etc. showed those were fine, but it was impossible to actually get the bulb to light up -- he suggested it was because the control board was broken. do you believe I should now try replacing both light socket assemblies or just the one that had the bulb blow out on me? and did I just ruin the new board?
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Rank: Advanced Member
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Quote:...do you believe I should now try replacing both light socket assemblies or just the one that had the bulb blow out on me?... You can test them for continuity to see if it is shorted. If you can not do it then it is safer to replace to replace both light sockets. Quote:...did I just ruin the new board?.. It is hard to say. Disconnect the wires from both light sockets, insulate them and try to turn the oven on. Gene.
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Rank: Member
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Unfortunately that was not successful. However, as I was working to remove the light socket fixtures I had to remove the side panel. Doing so revealed the "control board" (part 9782437). The schematics showed this being in a different place, so that was never tested/considered. The tech who looked at the unit did not even consider this part (or didn't know about it.) Do you think the Control board ( Part Details - WHIRLPOOL Board, power, part number: 9782437) could be the culprit? Is there any testing I can do to check? Thanks again for all your help!
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Rank: Advanced Member
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Joined: 7/19/2007(UTC)
Posts: 27,455
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Locate and check for continuity the 20 amps inline fuse which is a part of the main wire harness (look at the picture).  Gene.
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