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Hello... My dryer was just having problems starting all the time, now it will not start at all...In the past I would turn the timer to More Dry...press the start button and it would complete the load without a problem...Then a few loads later it would not start, I would have to turn the timer a couple of times and then it would start up.....Now it will not start at all......I tried to hold down the start button and spin the timer to see if it would start(this sometimes worked in the past) and it did start for a few seconds on Extra care, but then the buzzer came on and it cut off.........I pulled the start button and checked it with the multimeter..not sure if I did it correctly. The start button is a three prong relay...I turned the multimeter on ohms and put one of the test leads on one of the prongs with a hole and the other on the solid prong....Pressed the button and received a 0 reading...I also did this with the other prong and received the same 0 reading, which I believe shows the switch is good....I then pulled off the back and checked the thermal fuse for continuity...and that also seemed ok...Could it be the timer? How can I check the timer? Anyone else seen this?? Thanks for any help anyone can give.......
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert, Administrators Joined: 7/19/2007(UTC) Posts: 27,455
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You'll need someone to help you with this test.
Open the door. Push and hold the door switch, push the start switch and manually turn the drum.
Post the result.
Gene.
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 1/14/2008(UTC) Posts: 9
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Turned the dryer to the More Dry position, had my wife hold the start button as I pushed in the door switch and turned the drum.....Nothing happened.....
Thanks....
Gene
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert, Administrators Joined: 7/19/2007(UTC) Posts: 27,455
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The first thing I would check is the thermal fuse (#6 on the bulkhead parts break down diagram). Remove one of the wires from any of the thermal fuse terminals and check continuity across the terminals. If the thermal fuse is open, it has to be replaced together with the cycling thermostat (#7 on the bulkhead parts break down diagram). - The part number for the thermal fuse is AP3133489 - The part number for the cycling thermostat is AP3131939 Here are the break down diagrams for the Whirlpool electric dryer Model KEYS850JQ0 (basic model KEYS850) Gene.
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 1/14/2008(UTC) Posts: 9
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I have checked the continuity across the terminals and that was working. I had replaced the thermal fuse about a year ago....I even bypassed the fuse and taped the two wires together....Still nothing happened........Thanks for your replies.....
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert, Administrators Joined: 7/19/2007(UTC) Posts: 27,455
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According to the wiring diagram check: 1. The door switch. 2. 120V between the start relay terminal R1 and the ground (the door is closed) 3. 120V across the motor terminals 4M & 5M 4. The resistance across the motor start winding Post you findings. Gene.
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 1/14/2008(UTC) Posts: 9
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Checked the door switch by opening pressing in the button and light went out and I could hear the timer come on.....
Checked the start relay r1 and ground with the door closed and received 123.1V
The other two, are a little over my head, not really sure how to check these.....Do I need to pull out the lint chute to get to the motor, would there be marking for the 4m and 5m?
Sorry....I'm a newbie at electric diagrams....and fixing dryers...
Thanks again for all your help......
Gene
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert, Administrators Joined: 7/19/2007(UTC) Posts: 27,455
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Sounds like the timer is gone dead. Check for continuity across the "T" & "W" timer terminals when the timer is in "on" position and at least one of wires removed from any of these terminals. If it's open - replace the timer. - The part number for the timer is AP2976318 Gene.
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 1/14/2008(UTC) Posts: 9
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Well, pulled the V wire and turned the timer on and checked for continuity across the "T" & "W" timer and it beeped...So, I guess there is continuity.......It came down to the time I needed to order the part so it would be here tomorrow, so I ordered the timer.....I hope thats what it is....I posted on other forums also and all have come back saying it is most likely the timer...But after this test..does that prove the timer is ok??
Thanks......
Gene
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert, Administrators Joined: 7/19/2007(UTC) Posts: 27,455
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I'm afraid you did not get me right.
You had to remove the "T" or "W" wires before the continuity test.
Gene.
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