Rank: Member
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Joined: 8/14/2008(UTC)
Posts: 2
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Hi,
I've been doing a bit of reading up and trying to DIY fix my stove, but I'm stuck. Here's my story:
I had 2 problems:
1st, the front right burner would not ignite on its own. It was getting gas and "clicking", but no spark at the ignitor.
2nd, the stove would randomly "click" about once a minute or so, even when all knobs were in the "off" position.
I've read that the random clicking can be caused by the switches getting wet. I don't think this is the case, because the stove did this for several weeks before I finally unplugged it out of frustration. Now, a month later (after getting tired of using matches) I plug it back it and it still does it.
In any case, I open up the stove and do lots of cleaning/drying anyway. Still clicks.
On further investigation I discover that the wire to the front right burner (the one that doesn't work) has a short it in. I discovered this in a very SHOCKing manner. ;)
I clean and clean the wire, but can't get all the grease off enough for electrical tape to stick. So I cover it with heat-shrink tubing. 2 layers in fact.
Put everything back together and guess what, not only does the front right burner now ignite, but the random clicking is gone....for awhile...
About 6 hours later, it starts clicking again. (Nothing was done during this time... in other words no opportunity for a switch to get wet again or anything)
So here I am trying to figure out what's wrong and don't know how to go further.
I just completely took out the wire that had the short in it (leaving that plug on the spark module unconnected) and still get the random clicking.
All the switches seem to be in decent condition. They are all secure and don't seem to be loose (which would randomly allow them to send a signal to ignite).
Also, another thing I've noticed. No matter which knob I turn on, all 4 burners are sparking. Is this normal? The wires to the switches are all run in a series, so I'm not sure how the spark module would know which knob is turned on anyway, but then again I'm not an electrician.
Anyway, I figure it has to either be the spark module or one (or more) of the switches, but I don't know how to determine which one. Is the spark module constantly sending a current through all the switches, and then when that current is cut, it knows to send a spark? (I'm trying to figure out if I stick a multimeter on the switch line, how I can tell if something is defective).
Sorry for the long post, but I'm trying to make sure I put all the information I know, even if some of it is irrelevant.
Thanks a ton.
-Steve
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 8/14/2008(UTC)
Posts: 2
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Also, do you sell the wires that go from the module to the ignitor? When I go through the main page and enter my model number, it brings up skematics that do not include the wires. When doing just general searching, I find wires that are directly connected to the ignitor. My stove is different. The wire clips onto both the module and the ignitor. On the end is a simple clip that just pushes on. Works in the same way butterfly connectors work, but it is flat, not round. (Sorry not sure what those connectors are called)
Thanks again
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 5/28/2008(UTC)
Posts: 1,620
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 5/28/2008(UTC)
Posts: 1,620
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Oh, and yes it is very normal for you to turn one switch to ignite and all ignitors click. When you turn the knob the closing of the switch tells the spark module to start sparking. But it does not know which one yet until the flame hits the ignitor. This flame changes the resistance of the ignitor, and thus now the module knows which burner is on, and stops the sparking
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 5/28/2008(UTC)
Posts: 1,620
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One more thing to check is your ground. If the outlet the cooktop is plugged into lost a ground it will spark erratically. Also if the polarity of the outlet is reversed, you'll get sparky spark.
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 7/27/2009(UTC)
Posts: 2
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Is part number WB18T10218 really correct for spark module WB13K005? GE insists that this is correct but an appliance guy I called showed me that the pins on wires are too small for the module. In fact, internet search says that correct part is WB18T10177. GE refuses to admit their mistake and now I am stuck with a wrong part, not to mention unnecessary bill from appliance repair person. Has anything like this happened to anyone else? Any ideas on what can be done about this situation (other than swallowing all the bills and reordering parts)?
Agarwala
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 7/27/2009(UTC)
Posts: 2
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Originally Posted by: agarwala  Is part number WB18T10218 really correct for spark module WB13K005? GE insists that this is correct but an appliance guy I called showed me that the pins on wires are too small for the module. In fact, internet search says that correct part is WB18T10177. GE refuses to admit their mistake and now I am stuck with a wrong part, not to mention unnecessary bill from appliance repair person. Has anything like this happened to anyone else? Any ideas on what can be done about this situation (other than swallowing all the bills and reordering parts)?
Agarwala Sorry copied wrong spark module number from mail above. Should be WB13K25 (or WB13K0025). Agarwala
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