Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 7/6/2009(UTC)
Posts: 17
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Hi Magician59,
Well, guess waht. I have a little bit of mistrust of my multimeter as it wanders when I take a reading across some of the components so I found my old continuity testor and resurrected it and it seems like it is the thermal fuise that is the problem--no light--and all the stats do show continuity. Do you think I have isolated it or is there some other reason I would get no light??
Best,
Joel Gordes
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 8/16/2007(UTC)
Posts: 3,273
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I couldn't find the specific schematic diagram for your model. In a lot of dryers, the thermal fuse will control the motor circuit; but if yours is open, and everything else checks out ok, then this is the part to replace. It's ok to temporarily jump it just to see if you get heat (as a secondary test), but just don't do any loads without replacing it. If the replacement blows, replace the cycling thermostat (the four bladed one).
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 7/6/2009(UTC)
Posts: 17
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Great, I will try this out later today and report back to you.
Depending upon the part cost shipping cost I may just order the cycling stat anyhow since the thermal fuse seems pretty low cost and the shipping could really escalate cost so one shipping cost rather than two may keep prices down--maybe.
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 6/29/2009(UTC)
Posts: 11
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Sir-
I think your off course here. Try your meter on "Ohms" go across the ignitor terminals disconnected from the rest of the machine. You'll get something low like 20 ohms if the ignitor is good.
Pull one wire off the thermal fuse and go across that and I'll be you'll read open circuit which is probably the only real problem you have. (Except the lint build up that caused the fuse to blow in the first place)
Good Luck to You,
Steve
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 7/6/2009(UTC)
Posts: 17
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Dear Magician59 and Dr Maneuver,
OK, sicne my last communique, I did what Magician59 suggested and jumped the thermal fuse once I had the ignitor reconnected and, I am pleased to report, the ignitor DID glow red whereupon I stopped the test. I then ordered a new fuse. Actually, while there was some lint, the lint near the fuse was not particularly bad.
Best,
Joel Gordes
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 7/6/2009(UTC)
Posts: 17
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By the way, many, many thanks to Magician59 for his patience and perseverance with me on identifying what we now believe to be the problem. I really appreciated his help on this. His logic was faultless and clear and easy to follow.
Best,
Joel Gordes
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 8/16/2007(UTC)
Posts: 3,273
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I'm glad to help, especially if it will save some dollars on a repair. Let us hear the triumphant report of a dryer back in service!
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 7/6/2009(UTC)
Posts: 17
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Indeed, "Peace visits not the guilty mind" and I will send a full report once the part arrives and I get it in place and fire the little dude up.
Thank you again, Magician59.
Best,
Joel N. Gordes
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