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Hi,
This is my first post on the site. I have a whirlpool duet washer WFW8300SW0, three years old, that I have been trying to fix for a week. I have a big family and really need this machine...
Problem: Door won’t unlock, won’t begin cycle.
It didn't spin at the end of a cycle, so I opened the front panel, and used the manual control to open the door. Now door won't open (pause light on, add a garment light on). the control panel lights work.
What I tried: cleaned the filter. Ran the diagnostic program: F-24 error code followed by Rince/Spin light, and door locking/pause light coming on. I checked all wire connections for wear/looseness, replaced the heat sensor, replaced the door lock (was getting inconsistent resistance readings from it when I tested it at the CCU as in the service manual). Oddly, after jiggling wire at the dispenser, and resetting the machine, I was able to get it to fill, but it would not agitate or spin (just showed minutes advancing on the timer).
I’m new at this and obviously replaced two good parts--do I need to replace the CCU?
Thanks in advance for any help you can offer!
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Rank: Member
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Thanks, Gene. I'll try that this morning.
Stephen
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Rank: Member
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Hi Gene,
You were right about wires! I spent quite some time today checking wires with the multimeter and comparing the readings with the manual. I found two discrepancies: Door switch (which I had replaced) gave 120 Ohms for the lock solenoid at the CCU (should be 60 Ohms) and the temperature sensor at CCU gave infinity instead of around 11 ohms (the sensor itself was performing accurately, but not the wire). Question I have is: how do I test the door switch apart from the wire at the CCU (the manual doesn't say how to do this)? I want to know if I need to replace the wire there, or if I just installed a bad switch. How should I proceed?
Thanks in advance for any advice.
Steve
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Rank: Advanced Member
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Hi Steve, You probably have to remove the door latch to test the switch. You can find the complete instructions in the Service manual. Gene.
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Rank: Member
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Hi Gene,
Thanks for your reply.
Tested the part itself with the multimeter. Resistance for the door lock solenoid was 120 ohms instead of the 60 ohms listed in the manual. I guess I got a bad part and need to replace it.
But what about the heat sensor reading I mentioned above--do you suggest I replace the door lock again first?
I appreciate your advice.
Steve
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Rank: Advanced Member
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Steve, Quote:Resistance for the door lock solenoid was 120 ohms instead of the 60 ohms listed in the manual. There are two solenoids and it looks to me like you got a summary reading for both of them together. Have you eliminated the sensor wires and measured the sensor resistance at the sensor? Gene.
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Rank: Member
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Hi Gene,
Yes, I tried that as best I could, and I think you're right, it's probably a good solenoid with 60 + 60 ohms coming through.
That means the error messages I'm receiving from the CCU are incorrect.
So this morning I ordered a new CCU from a Canadian supplier, and I'll post to this thread with the results after it comes in and I install it (my wife's getting annoyed with having to use the laundramet--we've got 10 kids here!).
Thanks again,
Steve
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Rank: Advanced Member
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Steve, According to the Service manual (page 5-5), when you are testing the solenoids at the CCU you have to measure the resistance between pins 1 & 3 and 2 & 3. The readings should be 60 Ohms for each test. In another words it should be two readings. You posted earlier: Quote:Door switch (which I had replaced) gave 120 Ohms for the lock solenoid at the CCU (should be 60 Ohms) . It was inaccurate test or a bad solenoids? You did not answer my second question: Quote:Have you eliminated the sensor wires and measured the sensor resistance at the sensor? Gene.
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