|
|
Make sure the drive block nut is really tight or it will just fail again. Also, make sure the drive tube tabs are not rounded off. You can use a heavy rod or punch to pound the nut tight if you don't have the special spanner wrench.
|
|
|
Replaced the Drive Block today and fixed the problem. Thanks guys for all of your help
|
|
|
Do the tranny coupler test in my sticky "replacing direct drive brake shoes and post results.
Without a amprobe to check motor current, operating the washer with dragging brake shoes could smoke the motor and increase power usage.
Usually dragging brake shoes will just cause a jerky stop. In your case, you may have something busted in the brake housing. You will need to pull the tranny out to check.
Also, you could have a bad drive block, the item that is under the agitator, just pull the agitator to check.
|
|
|
out of curiousity (any experienced tech that may have an opinion) anytime i came across a direct drive whirlpool that wouldnt come to a smooth stop (would stop so quick the tub would hit the frame) i would use the lubricant that came with the frigidaire dryer rear bearing kit and put a very tiny bit of it on the spring and then it would come to a nice smooth stop. would you guys suggest that or no? (i know, i know it just sounds wrong to put lubricant on a brake but worked...)
|
|
|
Sounds like a brake problem. Use the info in the Sticky by Richappy on Direct Drive brakes to investigate. Repairing the brakes, or replacing the Brake Tube assembly will probably be called for.
|
|
|
When the washer is trying to stop the tub after the spin cycle, it spins, but makes a loud clattering sound like something is trying to stop it, but cant.
|
