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Awesome! Glad to hear it worked out well. Hopefully somebody else can benefit from this post as well.
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Ok, I installed the new jazz board and it seems to have fixed my problems. My fridge is cooler then ever now. The display numbers on my old board was real dim the ones on this board are nice and bright. For some reason my ice maker started working as well. I was sitting in my dining room earlier and I heard the ice drop. Sure enough I looked in there and I have a whole bin full of ice. I don't know why it started working all of the sudden? Anyways, thanks for everything it is greatly appreciated.
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No it does not control the ice maker. Pop the front cover off the I/M and use an insulated wire to jump T and H. That forces it into a harvest mode. After is runs for a few seconds, pull the wire out and let it keep running by itself. Should go thru a whole cycle, eject the ice and refill with water. Give that a shot and post what the result is and we can work from there.
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I am just going to order a new jazz board and hope that fixes it. My ice maker does not work either. Does the Jazz board control that as well?
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It sounds like a control board issue to me. The odd voltage readings concern me a little though. The 22 vac should be consistent thru the heater and bi-metal unless one of them is open. Was the unit cold when you ran this test? Are you using a digital meter? Curious what the actual ohm readings were when you tested the bi-metal and heater? The heater should have 120 vac supplied when in forced defrost.
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Ok, sorry for all the replies. Even when the fridge setting is set to off. I have 22 volts going in to the heater. When force defrost is enabled the voltage does not change at the heater and I have 0 volts at the thermostat. Does this make sense?
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Ok, I get zero voltage at the defrost thermostat when in force defrost mode. I am assuming this means that I need a control board? Thanks for all information.
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Ok. What kind of voltage could I expect at the heater and thermostat?
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I would force it into defrost while you have it apart and see if it's even sending voltage to the heater/bi-metal. If not, I see a new control board in your future...
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Ok, I checked the continuity on the heater and the defrost thermostat. Both check good.:( the freezer coils were froze solid and the thermostat had continuity then I removed it from the frozen pipe and let it warm up. It then didn't have continuity. Could the control board be bad if the force defrost doesn't even cause it to defrost?
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