|
|
UPDATE: Figured it out. So, here's what we knew.
1. Broiler works, but oven doesn't light.
2. Both igniters are fine.
3. The gas safety valve has continuity on both the broiler and oven side.
So, it needed further troubleshooting.
I made some jumper wires to jump the oven controls to the broiler igniter and broiler gas valve. I set the oven to 300 and pressed start. The broiler igniter started glowing, and then ignited properly within about 30 seconds. So I now concluded that the control board is sending the proper power the oven's igniter and gas valve.
I next thought there might be an obstruction in the oven burners gas line, or the oven burner's valve is stuck closed. I took compressed air and reverse flowed it into the burner's gas line (do at your own risk). The main gas regulator popped off with a load hiss, followed by a faint gas odor. Ok, whatever was obstructing the oven burners gas line finally broke loose.
I next hooked everything back up, tested the broiler. It worked. Next, set the oven to 300 and pressed start. It lit within 30 seconds and looks normal. I'm guessing the gas safety valve on the oven burner was stuck for some reason. The compressed air broke it loose. Only time will tell how long until the safety valve sticks again. At least I now know it's the safety valve and not the control module.
|
|
|
Need some help. My GE slide in range won't light the oven burner. The broiler lights just fine. Back to the oven burner. The glow igniter gets orange/white, but there's no gas. So I pulled the igniter, tested continuity, and it's good. Next, I swapped both igniters. The broiler works, and the oven still doesn't. So, both igniters are heating properly, and both have continuity.
Next I went to the gas safety valve. I measure the broiler side and the oven side for continuity. Both sides had continuity. At this point I'm scratching my head. I'm not a mechanic, just a DIYer. However, I would really like to fix this myself.
The only parts I can think would be bad are the safety valve, or the control module. Neither one is cheap. They're both over 100 bucks.
Since the safety valve has continuity on both sides, is it possible that the bi-metal switch inside is messed up? Maybe it's jammed and not releasing? How can I test this, and how can I test the control module?
Thanks
|
