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Last 10 Posts (In reverse order)
fairbank56 Posted: Tuesday, November 13, 2012 4:52:00 PM(UTC)
 
Great! Thanks for reporting back.

Eric
Rjr19146 Posted: Tuesday, November 13, 2012 4:49:44 PM(UTC)
 
Thanks Eric!

The new motor came today and the washer is as good as new!
fairbank56 Posted: Saturday, November 10, 2012 6:15:43 PM(UTC)
 
GE Washer Repair: Drive Motor Replacement (part #WH20X10066) - YouTube

You don't really need the belt installation tool, all it does is keep the belt from falling off the motor pulley when installing it over the large pulley.

Eric
Rjr19146 Posted: Saturday, November 10, 2012 5:55:45 PM(UTC)
 
I found the part number WH20X10057 which is much cheaper then a new washer.

Are there removal and installation instructions available? I looked but couldn't locate anything other then the diagrams

Thanks
fairbank56 Posted: Saturday, November 10, 2012 3:03:38 PM(UTC)
 
Bad motor/inverter. Make sure you get the one for your specific model washer. There are different variations of this motor and they are not interchangeable.

Eric
Rjr19146 Posted: Saturday, November 10, 2012 2:45:32 PM(UTC)
 
We went through all the wire combinations at various stages and they were all getting 120V when they should according to your post.

Does that point to anything or are there further troubleshooting techniques?

Thanks
Rjr19146 Posted: Friday, November 9, 2012 7:01:01 AM(UTC)
 
Hi Eric,

I am going have someone more expierenced with electrical troubleshooting come over tonight and take the measurements on the various wires. i will post the results afterwards.

I have never used a mulitmeter before. I would rather diagnose the problem rather than buy the motor and have that not be the issue.

Thanks again for your help.
fairbank56 Posted: Wednesday, November 7, 2012 4:39:55 PM(UTC)
 
I'm not having much confidence in the information your giving me nor in your abilities to do the electrical troubleshooting. This is AC voltage were measuring here, not DC. It would be very simple for me to determine whether this is a motor issue, timer issue or wiring issue by taking some AC voltage measurements but I'm very experienced at it and you basically have no experience, so I really can't help you any further. You could try the shotgun approach by simply replacing the motor and/or timer in hopes it's one or the other but it may end up being a wiring/connection issue.

Eric
Rjr19146 Posted: Wednesday, November 7, 2012 4:17:50 PM(UTC)
 
I ran the tests again with the red lead in the black/red wire.

The black lead on the orange and red/black wires was reading 0.

The black lead on the far right connector during the first agitate stage was reading th estate voltage on all the wires.

I am unfamiliar with the multimeter but I have an analog meter on a 125 DCV setting and the needle was all the way up.

Thanks for your patience!
Rjr19146 Posted: Wednesday, November 7, 2012 3:40:27 PM(UTC)
 
Ok. I'm not 100% sure I did this correctly.

With the red lead in with the red/white wire on the far left connector I seem to have gotten less than 120 V from the red/black and orange wires - it looked to be around 80V

The other wires seemed to be getting 120V in the various cycles.

Does that mean anything?

Thanks for helping