I put in the new burner, the same problem. It lights once, heats for afew minutes, goes off, tries 4 sparks to relight and it doesnt light. After a few minutes, it tries to relight,4 sparks, sometimes it lights, more often it doesn't. This is the same with the all the new parts, or the old parts.

Right now, using the old burner, I drilled 2 small holes closer to the spark ignighter(sensor). I have fined tuned the sensor , bending it to a spot where it lights on the first attempt. I bent it closer and in a postion that gets more flame. It so far has acheived the correct temps I have told it. This is also with all the original parts.

I think most of my ovens problem is altitude. The oven has worked fine for years, I have no idea why it started this not staying lit problem, but as it is set now, after several test runs, it is doing good.

I will keep you posted, thanks for all your help Gene, I appeciate it.

Ron

The burner is in transit now. I know how hard it is to diagnose stuff without actually being the technician looking at the appliance. I appreciate your help, on my own I would probably just throw the $2000 oven out.

Thanks alot for your help, Ron

Gene, I just ran the clean cycle for a few minutes, It got up over 500*, I could see the burner through the glass, it never went out or tried to relight. It was on constant. My temp probe only goes to 500*, so I know it much much warmer. Everything seemed to work as normal, door locked, I could time self clean, all panel lights came on as they should. Does this tell you anything?

The normal reading at 70°F suppose to be 1080 Ohm. 1108 Ohm reading corresponds to 83°F.

Where did you measure it: at the control board or at the sensor plug on the back of the range? More accurate way in such situation is to do it at the control board plug.

Also, a laser thermometer is not accurate to use it in ovens. It measures a temperatures of a metal surfaces but not the air temperature inside the oven. You have to have the oven on for at least two hours to get such reading more or less accurate. I'm afraid I did not get clear what did you mean Did you open the oven door during the oven temperature tests?

Also I did recommend you to order the burner/igniter assembly if the flame will cycle on & off.

Don't worry about money you paid for parts because you always can return unneeded parts later.

Gene.
P.S. I hope you understand that I'm trying to diagnose the problem with your oven remotely and, doing that, I should rely on all information provided by you.

At what temperature did you get it?

Gene.