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What you need to do is to lean the washer over and try to turn the transmission pulley. It should turn easily both ways. Turn it clockwise, the brakes will release and the transmission, agitator and the tub will turn together. Turn it counter clockwise and the brakes will stay engaged and the agitator should turn independently. If this doesn’t happen the problem is in the transmission or the brakes. Post back and tell what happens when you do this.
I have a very similar problem. Spinning the pulley spins the drum but reversing its spin is extremely hard and does not agitate. How can I tell if it is transmission or brake assembly?
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Originally Posted by: applianceman  I wouldn’t attempt to lube anything at the bottom of the machine. You say its working now? If so I would use it and see what happens. I hate that you opened the transmission for nothing the more we talked the more it sounded like the transmission. At this point I really don’t know what to tell you. Basically the agitator (when working properly) is never locked to the spin basket (tub) it just spins along with the tub when the brakes are released (in spin mode). I will seem as if the agitator is locked down because the gear ratio of the transmission would make it very hard to turn the agitator from the top. If the brakes were not releasing the washer would still agitate and the problem would be when it tried to spin. If the brakes were not holding it would spin in agitation mode. When I first looked at it, the agitator was jammed to the drum. At that point, I was clueless as to how the transmission operated (i.e., CW - Spin, CCW - agitate). After manipulatiting it several times by hand, the agitator "broke free". At that point, I got a basic understanding of how the transmission was supposed to operate. In theory, it should operate now, though I still don't have a good explanation for why it failed in the first place. The inside of the panels didn't show any signs of water leakage. There was only some dust, lint and a minor amount of waxy soap residue as you would expect after 16-18 yrs of use. So I guess that I'll try it and monitor it closely. Thanks for all of you insight. Bernie
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I wouldn’t attempt to lube anything at the bottom of the machine. You say its working now? If so I would use it and see what happens. I hate that you opened the transmission for nothing the more we talked the more it sounded like the transmission. At this point I really don’t know what to tell you. Basically the agitator (when working properly) is never locked to the spin basket (tub) it just spins along with the tub when the brakes are released (in spin mode). I will seem as if the agitator is locked down because the gear ratio of the transmission would make it very hard to turn the agitator from the top. If the brakes were not releasing the washer would still agitate and the problem would be when it tried to spin. If the brakes were not holding it would spin in agitation mode.
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I finally had time to pull the transmission cover. There was about a quart of oil in there and no visible signs of damage or wear. Oil seemed good as well.
Originally when the problem occurred, the agitator was locked/jammed to the tub and that caused the belt to burn up. I'm thinking that the transmission is fine and that the jam was in the mechanism that locks the agitator to the tub for spin (CW) and unlocks during normal agitation (CCW).
Your thoughts? Is this reasonable and can I lube the lower end without disassembly. I don't have a manual and it looks like dissassembly and reassembly could be difficult.
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The part number for the grease is 05680. this is one bottle of grease more than enough to fill your transmission back up. Sorry i didn't mention this before.
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Originally Posted by: applianceman Glad you posted I forgot to tell you that you need to buy some gasket maker like car mechanics use to make gaskets of oil pans and things to make a new gasket when you reinstall the cover. Also get ready for a mess when you take the cover off. I also though about it the other day I took one apart and there was no grease in it. It had all leaked out this one was still working but if yours was out of grease it may have been why it failed. Have you seen any grease on the floor? What type of grease is used in the transmission (brand, grade, etc.). I assume that an appliance parts dealer would have a supply on hand.
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Glad you posted I forgot to tell you that you need to buy some gasket maker like car mechanics use to make gaskets of oil pans and things to make a new gasket when you reinstall the cover. Also get ready for a mess when you take the cover off. I also though about it the other day I took one apart and there was no grease in it. It had all leaked out this one was still working but if yours was out of grease it may have been why it failed. Have you seen any grease on the floor?
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Originally Posted by: applianceman I was attempting to remove the transmission cover. The rubber gasket is effective gluing the cover plate in place so I still have not removed it. However, while manipulating the pulley it freed up in the counter-clockwise (CCW) direction. Now turning it CCW only moves the agitator. When turning it CCW it turns freely for about one revolution then, requires a few pounds of force for one revolution, and so forth. This appears to drive the normal agitation cycle. However, I guessing that I'm still not done since I have not addressed what caused it to lock up and burn up the belt in the first place.
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Sounds like the gears in the transmission are locked up. Sorry we had to go through so much to determine this but its not a common problem so I wanted to be sure. If you lean the washer all the way back and point the transmission cover up you can remove the transmission cover drain the grease and see if you can determine why the gears are locked. I warn you be ready there is a lot of grease in that transmission I always catch the grease with a large trash bag. Also you will have to buy a new quart of grease.
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