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Originally Posted by: powown  Hi, I have the same problem with the oven after I turned on the self destruct, whoops, self-cleaning function. The oven door is now locked, which was opened by a coat hanger and there is 220V going into the oven and 24VAC going into the control board. What part is the control transformer that is needed so the oven works again? Powown, If you have 24 VDC at the control board, you shouldn't need the control transformer, and the control panel thermal fuse would be OK as well. We're going to need the model number of your oven, so we can advise you properly, and if parts are needed, we will have the proper information so you can order the correct parts, and get you oven up and running. You may want to review the remainder of this thread, so you may have a better idea of other checks and possibilities. In the mean time, try and get us the model number of your oven. Thanks,
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Originally Posted by: Joe / APP Team Regier, Correct, the two blue wires (18-20 VAC) from the control transformer is the power supply for the display, signal and the communication to the relays. If you have the voltage across the two blue wires on the control board, but no display, the control is the issue.
Ok, we can understand the waiting on the door self clean latch assembly, power to the control and operation of the oven is more desirable. Hi, I have the same problem with the oven after I turned on the self destruct, whoops, self-cleaning function. The oven door is now locked, which was opened by a coat hanger and there is 220V going into the oven and 24VAC going into the control board. What part is the control transformer that is needed so the oven works again?
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Originally Posted by: Regier We replaced the Control Panel and finally got power to the oven but only by holding in the door latch. So now we know it's worth ordering the latch next. What an engineering mess! There should be a recall on this! Thanks for all your help! Regier, You're Very Welcome !!! Yes you will need the door S/C latch assembly. The control board/panel is designed to constantly check the door switch circuits, even in the TOD (time of day)mode. If or when a switch fails or a latch is in the wrong position this will present a door lock error code if the motor can't rotate the latch back to the proper position.
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We replaced the Control Panel and finally got power to the oven but only by holding in the door latch. So now we know it's worth ordering the latch next. What an engineering mess! There should be a recall on this! Thanks for all your help!
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Originally Posted by: Regier For clarification:
If we have the needed voltage to the control, but the problem is in the control, we should replace the control transformer?
The clock does not have any light display whatsoever, so we will check those wires as well.
We'll order the latch assembly, but wanted to make sure that we could get power working first.
Thank you for your responses. Regier, Correct, the two blue wires (18-20 VAC) from the control transformer is the power supply for the display, signal and the communication to the relays. If you have the voltage across the two blue wires on the control board, but no display, the control is the issue. Ok, we can understand the waiting on the door self clean latch assembly, power to the control and operation of the oven is more desirable.
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For clarification:
If we have the needed voltage to the control, but the problem is in the control, we should replace the control transformer?
The clock does not have any light display whatsoever, so we will check those wires as well.
We'll order the latch assembly, but wanted to make sure that we could get power working first.
Thank you for your responses.
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Originally Posted by: Regier Joe, did what you recommend at the control transformer. I have 120 VAC across the black and white wires and 18 to 24 VAC across the two blue wires at the control board. Re checked the control panel thermal fuse, in the wiring harness between the transformer and the control board.
I haven't replaced the latch yet because there's no power to the display panel. Do you think replacing the latch will restore the power to the unit?
Also, I did order the reconfiguration kit, but if I'm not planning to use the self destruct button again, I'll probably return it. Regier, If you have 120 VAC into the control transformer, and 18-20 VAC across the blue wires (JP03/3 & JP03/2) then you have power into the control board. You can check for line voltage into the clock from the JP06/1 and JP06/2 to chassis ground but you're information says you have the needed voltage, and the problem is in the control. With the way the control is wired and the circuits in the control constantly looking for the latch switch and door switch status, you'll need to replace the door latch assembly. If the control doesn't see the proper circuits, it will produce an error code and the oven will not work.
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Joe, did what you recommend at the control transformer. I have 120 VAC across the black and white wires and 18 to 24 VAC across the two blue wires at the control board. Re checked the control panel thermal fuse, in the wiring harness between the transformer and the control board.
I haven't replaced the latch yet because there's no power to the display panel. Do you think replacing the latch will restore the power to the unit?
Also, I did order the reconfiguration kit, but if I'm not planning to use the self destruct button again, I'll probably return it.
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Originally Posted by: Regier We bought the fuses and checked to make sure they worked... There's power to the unit but the unit does not have power. The lock didn't reset, the display doesn't light up, nothing. The gasket looks fine. There must've been something plastic on the lock/latch because it melted. Otherwise everything looks good. What do we replace next? Ours is an IKEA NUTID IBS550PWS00 Regier, There are several things to check, start at the control transformer. Make sure you have 120 VAC across the black and white wires and 18 to 24 VAC across the two blue wires at the control board. Then re check the control panel thermal fuse, in the wiring harness between the transformer and the control board. It had to have gotten pretty warm to melt a part on the self clean door latch, but either way it will need to be replaced Part number: AP6016808
, And there is a "relocation" kit Part number: AP5803432
designed to help keep the controls and thermal fuses in the air flow and keep them from opening or being damaged(see the attachments).
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We bought the fuses and checked to make sure they worked... There's power to the unit but the unit does not have power. The lock didn't reset, the display doesn't light up, nothing. The gasket looks fine. There must've been something plastic on the lock/latch because it melted. Otherwise everything looks good. What do we replace next? Ours is an IKEA NUTID IBS550PWS00
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