Customer Support 7 days a week

Welcome Guest! To enable all features please Login or Register.

Notification

Icon
Error

Post a reply
From:
Message:

Maximum number of characters in each post is: 32767
Bold Italic Underline   Highlight Quote Choose Language for Syntax Highlighting Insert Image Create Link   Unordered List Ordered List   Left Justify Center Justify Right Justify   Outdent Indent   More BBCode Tags
Font Color Font Size
Security Image:
Enter The Letters From The Security Image:
  Preview Post Cancel

Last 10 Posts (In reverse order)
Joe / APP Team Posted: Friday, May 27, 2011 12:43:47 PM(UTC)
 
Originally Posted by: benmadden Go to Quoted Post
Thanks, Joe


Ben,

You're welcome, it's my pleasure to assist.

Let us know what you find.

Thanks,

:) :) :)
benmadden Posted: Friday, May 27, 2011 10:51:12 AM(UTC)
 
Originally Posted by: Joe / APP Team Go to Quoted Post
Ben,

No, the fridge has a dual solenoid fill valve, one for the water dispenser, and one for the ice maker.

Part number: AP3160649
Part number: AP3160649


The proper test would be to disconnect the wires from the ice maker valve (green solenoid) ,attach your meter probes to the wire terminals and jump T to H at the control module, and check for 120 VAC, when the ice maker reaches the fill segment of the cycle, no voltage, bad wire or ice maker, if you have the voltage, bad fill valve.

Good Luck,
:cool: :cool: :cool:

Thanks, Joe
Joe / APP Team Posted: Friday, May 27, 2011 8:51:56 AM(UTC)
 
Originally Posted by: benmadden Go to Quoted Post
The optics work perfectly. I just don't get water in at the end of the harvest cycle. I don't even hear the click of the solenoid, so either the solenoid is bad, or the icemaker is not sending the signal to the solenoid.

Does the water inlet valve use the same part as the drinking water supply? The glass filler valve does work.


Ben,

No, the fridge has a dual solenoid fill valve, one for the water dispenser, and one for the ice maker.

Part number: AP3160649
Part number: AP3160649


The proper test would be to disconnect the wires from the ice maker valve (green solenoid) ,attach your meter probes to the wire terminals and jump T to H at the control module, and check for 120 VAC, when the ice maker reaches the fill segment of the cycle, no voltage, bad wire or ice maker, if you have the voltage, bad fill valve.

Good Luck,
:cool: :cool: :cool:
benmadden Posted: Friday, May 27, 2011 8:26:08 AM(UTC)
 
The optics work perfectly. I just don't get water in at the end of the harvest cycle. I don't even hear the click of the solenoid, so either the solenoid is bad, or the icemaker is not sending the signal to the solenoid.

Does the water inlet valve use the same part as the drinking water supply? The glass filler valve does work.
richappy Posted: Friday, May 27, 2011 7:11:22 AM(UTC)
 
When you open the freezer door, the red led should be blinking showing interrupted optics. If you close the flapper on the left, the led should be steady, then go out when you close the door switch, shining in invisible mode. If anything intermittent, you probably have bad refrigerator wiring, very difficult to fix.
benmadden Posted: Friday, May 27, 2011 5:36:38 AM(UTC)
 
My question is- if the water dispenser in the door works, does that mean the fill valve is also working?

I'm not getting the usual click and solenoid noise at the end of the harvest cycle.
benmadden Posted: Tuesday, April 19, 2011 9:38:36 AM(UTC)
 
No, mckeejohnson, it's not difficult. Unplug the refridgerator first, and be careful with the connector lock (plastic).
mckeejohnson Posted: Monday, April 18, 2011 2:52:55 PM(UTC)
 
I am having problems with the optics on my Whirlpool icemaker as well. It appears to be the optics. Was it difficult to switch the boards out? (In other words, is this best left to an experienced repair man or can someone reasonably handy handle this?)
benmadden Posted: Friday, April 15, 2011 6:23:41 AM(UTC)
 
I'm trying to fix a whirlpool icemaker with the optic system. First, I could get nothing reliable to happen with the red LED in the freezer. Mostly, it would be off. I replaced the pc boards. Now, first I got the 4-5 second solid on, then two blinks and one second delay. I understand the LED is supposed to be on constantly with (freezer door switch open) for the system to work. I'm hoping I haven't changed the pc boards unnecessarily. Do I need to jump the T to H terminals to start it?