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You are welcome
And thanks for getting back to us. Now when others search for a similar problem they will see what actually worked instead of just suggestions about what could be the cause.
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Originally Posted by: stem300  Denman,
Thanks for the link. I'll make good use of this. I might just take a chance and change the bi metal first. Pricing for the bimetal is about $30.00 and the heater is about $53.00. The parts guy said that he heard from his techs that this type of heater hardly goes bad. I hope I'm not that lucky guy.
thanks again Denman, Just an update. Worked on the refrig over the weekend. Tested the heater and it checked out okay. Changed the bi-metal thermostat, and ran the unit before replacing the panels. After the unit got cold enough, turned the timer switch to the first click and Hurray, the heater worked. Currently, my temp gauges are 0 degrees in the freezer and just under 40 in the frig. As I mentioned earlier, the bimetal was swollen. Upon inspection, the wires are molded into the plastic cap. The swelling actually caused the cap to lift and sever one of the wire connections, so obviously, no juice to the heater. Again, many thanks for your expertise.
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Originally Posted by: denman Denman, Thanks for the link. I'll make good use of this. I might just take a chance and change the bi metal first. Pricing for the bimetal is about $30.00 and the heater is about $53.00. The parts guy said that he heard from his techs that this type of heater hardly goes bad. I hope I'm not that lucky guy. thanks again
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Originally Posted by: denman I would check the heater for resistance, usually they are around 20 ohms.
If it is OK then odds are all you will need is the thermostat.
The thermostat should be 0 ohms when frozen. It opens just above freezing.
If the heater is open then of course you have to replace it but if the defrost thermostat is bulged/deformed I would also replace it even if it does measure OK.
Sounds like your timer is OK. Many thanks for the quick reply. I am waiting for a local parts quote to decide on whether to take a chance on just the defrost thermostat or the heater as well. Price permitting. I want to just go in there on more time and do the repair and be done with it. At least I have a choice of 1 or 2 items, instead of all 3. It would have been a nice design if these items easily connected like the timer, especially as these seem to be the most common problems. Anything else would almost demand a new unit rather than repair. Denman, again thanks for sharing your knowledge with us. I've read quite a few of your threads already. I'm not quite sure how to replace the heater as I was hoping that I wouldn't need to change it. Any ideas?
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I would check the heater for resistance, usually they are around 20 ohms.
If it is OK then odds are all you will need is the thermostat.
The thermostat should be 0 ohms when frozen. It opens just above freezing.
If the heater is open then of course you have to replace it but if the defrost thermostat is bulged/deformed I would also replace it even if it does measure OK.
Sounds like your timer is OK.
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I have a Whirlpool refrig, model #ET14JKXFN02 with a defrosting problem. In December I noticed the freezer and frig not as cold as it should be. did a complete defrost, also cleaned the coils in the back. Frost was built up evenlly across the evaporator unit.
That seemed to solve the problem or so I thought. I monitor both sides and the freezer was getting well below zero and the frig was at 32 degrees. I kept turning the thermostat to the left below the normal setting and it still seemed too cold.
I noticed this week that the temps were rising and decided to do some research before defrosting again, because it is now obvious that something is wrong.
I followed some of the procedures listed in the Sticky thread. ( really helpful info).
[LIST=1]
Turned the defrost timer clockwise til the 1st click.
Compressor and fan shuts off
Heating element doesn't get hot.
Proceeded to defrost the freezer.
Hope this temp fix will last[/LIST]I left the timer alone after the 1st click and it seems to be working as it kicks on after several minutes.
My next attempt will be to replace the faulty items. I did not disconnect the heating element or the terminating thermostat. The term thermostat is really hard to find on any parts list. I finally found as part of the wire harness #21 in the liner diagram. I also found that I can buy the thermostat separately, but it seems to odd design it as part of the harness.
This is where I deviated from the procedure. Rather than cut wires now, is it a safe assumption to replace the thermostat. My thermostat has a rubber stopper that seems to be popping out.
Or should I replace all three items, timer, heater, terminating thermostat.
(price permitting
many thanks
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