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Last 10 Posts (In reverse order)
sakleist2 Posted: Sunday, November 23, 2008 11:36:11 AM(UTC)
 
We have the same problem and have bought a new fuse box with a breaker instead of the screw in fuses. How do we wire the box?
birdman Posted: Thursday, November 22, 2007 5:10:04 PM(UTC)
 
Thanks for all the help.I replaced the box switch and my problem was solved! Thanks Abbie for the diagnostic!
birdman Posted: Saturday, November 17, 2007 6:49:42 AM(UTC)
 
Originally Posted by: abbie Go to Quoted Post
replace the two[ 30 amps fuse] metal box that will solve the problem..

Thanks Abbie, i will do this.
abbie Posted: Saturday, November 17, 2007 6:04:59 AM(UTC)
 
replace the two[ 30 amps fuse] metal box that will solve the problem..
birdman Posted: Saturday, November 17, 2007 5:48:20 AM(UTC)
 
Originally Posted by: richappy Go to Quoted Post
All indications point to a shorted heating element in the dryer, just pull out the heater housing and remove heating element.


Thanks for the reply.This being said, are you saying to replace the heating element altogether? If so, is it worth the cost to replace or should i just purchase a new dryer?

Thanks :)
richappy Posted: Saturday, November 17, 2007 3:10:14 AM(UTC)
 
All indications point to a shorted heating element in the dryer, just pull out the heater housing and remove heating element.
birdman Posted: Friday, November 16, 2007 9:53:46 PM(UTC)
 
Thanks for the speedy reply.Unfortunately I do not have anything to test for the amps. When you say replace the fuse box, do you mean the one with the two 30 amp fuses in it?
I took the 30 amp fuse out for the heating element and ran the dryer with only the one 30 amp fuse and it does not blow.When i put the fuse back in it (both fuses now installed) the dryer would run for about a minute and then it blew the start/door light fuse :(
Thanks
abbie Posted: Friday, November 16, 2007 9:32:19 PM(UTC)
 
the trouble sounds like it,s in the square dee [metal box 2 fuses] if you had an amp probe it should show you it is drawing 22 to 23 amps on the red wire, if so what is happening is when it is running the heat
in the fuse box [metal box]is taking out the 30 amp fuse .So the fix would be to change the fuse box.
birdman Posted: Friday, November 16, 2007 8:59:12 PM(UTC)
 
I have a Whirlpool "Imperial Series" dryer.It is a 2001 model, 7 cycle 4 temperatures. Sorry, i do not know the model number.
Was working fine for the past 6 1/2 years until last night.The dryer receptical wiring runs from the home electrical panel (100 amp "fuse" service) to a metal box with a switch and two 30 amp fuses inside. Then it is wired to the recepticle box. The dryer will run for a few minutes tops and then blows the 30 amp fuse that enables the dryer to start and the door light.The other 30 amp fuse which i believe controls the heating element of the dryer does not blow.I had the back cover off the dryer and the blower motor area to clean it out.Exhaust stack is clean.I am lost on this one.My thoughts are I have an electrical short.I ran the dryer with the panel off the back and it did not blow.
Any ideas?
Thanks in advance.