[rkhayes1413]

I hear clicking noises from the back of my GE Refrigerator (GE GSH25JSRFSS) it seems to be going from the Main Control Board Assembly. The Refrigerator seems to be cool most of the time. My thought is the Main Control Board Assembly is bad and need to be replaced. Should I replace only Main Control Board Assembly or is their more suggested part to be replaced with the Main Control Board Assembly????

[Gene]

The main control board has a few relays on it and when the relay got energized, it clicks.

If there are no problems with the temperature in both parts of the fridge, do not do anything.

Gene.

[rkhayes1413]

Thanks Gene

[stevecr]

i too have the clicking sound at the back but no cold refrigerator or freezer. I can feel which relay is clicking on the circuit board but it's soldered in place. can I but just that part and install it myself or do I have to buy the whole board. wchich I sure is expenseive

[rkhayes1413]

stevecr

I just replace the Main Control Board (P/N: WR55X10552, $95.00) it took less than 5 minutes to change. I also replace Defrost Thermostat (P/N: WR50X10068, $9.00).

No more clicking noises and the refrigerator seems to run smoother, quieter and colder.

[stevecr]

thanks for the reply to the clicking noise and you replacing the complete board. I GOT THE PART NUMBER OFF THE RELAY THAT IS MAKING THE NOISE AND GOING TO SEE IF i CAN BUY IT SEPARATELY

[rkhayes1413]

Let me know of the outcome.

[dokken]

My Original problem (12 months ago)
Originally my fan ran very slowly so I swapped yellow and red and it started to turn fast so I figured I fixed a misswire from the factory. Well I just took the fan to work and had an Electrical engineer determine what each wire is for:
Yellow=+12VDC
White = Common
Red = appears to be a digital/PWM controlled input (hi=on low=off)
Blue = Tach output (not connected on my fridge)
Apparently the +12vdc from the mother board was failing and swapping yellow and red temporarily allowed the fan to run (till it crashed hard yesterday).
Motor p/n: UDQT24LG3 if you suspect a failed motor ($120.00) you can put 12vdc (power adapter) on red and yellow and negative to white and see if it runs (be cautious of the polarity).

Just recently my fridge started clicking:
if the fan moves a little when the relay clicks (as mine did) unplug the fridge, disconnect the fan at the connector at the bottom of the fridge, wait a few minutes then plug the fridge back in, give it >5 mins to start running, if it runs fine I suggest blowing a fan on your coils to allow the fridge to remain cold (saves your food) until you can get it fixed (as far as I'm concerned this will work indefinitely, especially if GE wont fix it for free)

lol... you'll get a chuckle out of what GE offered... they will cover the board (because its a piece of crap) but I'm responsible for the service call and labor ... WTF???... it'd cost >$150.00 if I went that route; they wont just send me a new board. you can get a replacement board online for $100.00 but as far as I'm concerned I already gave them enough ca$h for a crappy board and I'm stubborn as hell.

Fridges shouldn't quit after 16months
ltwta@hotmail.com

[abadfish66]

Fyi. the pc fan will not provide enough airflow to remove the amount of heat needed. Also if the relay is clicking check the back of the board, the relay may have a bad solder spot you can resolder, if there is no burn mark, a new relay won't do you any good, you will need a new board.

[abadfish66]

Dokken, can I get your model and serial#. Also what makes you think the fan was wired incorectly? I am very intersested on this claim as I work on these everyday and since our electronic model refer has been around, can't say I have seen one wired wrong.